How to Choose a Solar Installer You Can Trust

Key takeaways

• Get at least 3 quotes. Solar is a big-ticket purchase, and quotes can easily vary by $5,000–$15,000 for a similar system. Multiple bids help you spot outliers and negotiate.
• Total system cost matters more than price per panel. Compare quotes by total installed cost per watt (often around $2.25–$4.50 per watt before incentives) and by what’s included.
• Installer quality is as important as equipment brand. Even top-tier panels will underperform or fail early if they’re poorly installed or wired.
• Read the contract and warranty carefully. Know who backs the warranties (manufacturer vs. installer), what’s covered, and for how long—especially workmanship and roof-leak coverage.
• Watch for high-pressure sales tactics. “Today-only” pricing, vague promises like “free solar,” or refusal to leave a written quote are red flags.
• Check licenses, insurance, and track record. A reputable installer will be properly licensed, insured, and able to show you recent local projects and references.
• Financing can change the real cost. Low “teaser” monthly payments may hide high interest or fees. Compare total lifetime cost, not just the monthly number.

Typical price range

All numbers below are approximate US ballpark ranges for residential rooftop solar. Actual costs will vary based on your roof, location, utility rules, and incentives.

For a typical home system (often 5–10 kW):

• Small system (3–5 kW):
  • Approx. $8,000–$18,000 before incentives
  • Often suitable for smaller homes or partial offset of usage.
• Average system (6–8 kW):
  • Approx. $14,000–$28,000 before incentives
  • Common size for many single-family homes aiming to cover most of their usage.
• Larger system (9–12 kW+):
  • Approx. $20,000–$40,000+ before incentives
  • For big homes, high electricity usage, or electric vehicles.
• Battery add-on (per battery):
  • Approx. $8,000–$16,000 installed
  • Depends on capacity, brand, and complexity of backup setup.
• Service work on an existing system:
  • Basic troubleshooting/inspection: $150–$500
  • Inverter replacement: $1,200–$4,000+ (equipment + labor, depending on type and size)
  • Panel replacement (single module): $300–$800+ (often tied to warranty coverage)

What pushes costs lower

• Simple roof: One- or two-story home with a simple, unshaded, south-facing roof and standard shingles.
• Smaller system size: Lower energy usage or willingness to offset only part of your bill.
• String inverter instead of microinverters/optimizers: Less hardware on the roof can reduce upfront cost (with some trade-offs).
• No battery or EV charger: Sticking to a straightforward grid-tied system.

What pushes costs higher

• Complex or steep roof: Multiple roof faces, dormers, very steep pitch, or fragile materials (like tile or slate).
• Shading and layout challenges: Trees, chimneys, or vents that require more design work or optimizers/microinverters.
• Battery backup and advanced monitoring: Backup circuits, smart panels, and whole-home backup add cost.
• Electrical upgrades: Main panel upgrades, trenching for detached garages, or bringing older wiring up to code.
• Premium brands and aesthetics: High-efficiency panels, all-black modules, or low-profile mounting systems.

Repair vs. replacement (or system expansion)

Solar systems don’t have “repairs” and “replacements” in the same way as a furnace or AC, but you may face decisions about:

• Fixing vs. replacing components (like inverters or a few panels)
• Leaving the system as-is vs. expanding or upgrading

When repair is reasonable

Repair or partial replacement makes sense when:

• System is relatively new (under 10–12 years).
• Issue is localized: One or a few panels are underperforming, or a single inverter has failed.
• Component is under warranty: Manufacturer or installer covers most of the cost.
• Roof is in good shape: No need to remove and reinstall the array.

Example:
Your 7 kW system is 6 years old. The inverter fails and is no longer under warranty. A replacement inverter and labor are quoted at $2,500. A new 7 kW system would cost about $20,000 before incentives.

• Repair cost is ~12–15% of replacement cost, and the panels still have lots of life left.
• In this case, repairing the inverter is usually the smarter move.

When replacement or major upgrade is smarter

Consider a bigger change when:

• System is older (15–20+ years).
  Panels are nearing the end of their performance warranty, and newer panels are more efficient.
• Multiple major components are failing.
  For example, inverter plus several panels, or recurring wiring issues.
• You’re re-roofing.
  If the roof is being replaced and the system is old, it may be more cost-effective to install a new system rather than remove and reinstall an aging one.
• Your energy needs have changed a lot.
  Adding an EV, hot tub, or electric heat may justify a larger, more efficient system.

Rule of thumb:

• If repairs and upgrades start to reach 30–40% of the cost of a new system, and the system is 10–15+ years old, it’s worth pricing out a full replacement or major upgrade.

Efficiency and long-term costs

Solar is a long-term investment—typically 25+ years. The installer and equipment you choose will affect:

• How much power you actually produce
• How often you need service
• How much you save over time

Panel and inverter efficiency

• Higher-efficiency panels produce more power in the same roof area, which is valuable if you have limited space or partial shading.
• Microinverters or power optimizers can improve performance on roofs with shading or multiple orientations, and can make monitoring and troubleshooting easier.
• String inverters are usually cheaper upfront but may produce less in partial shade and can be a single point of failure.

Warranties and reliability

Look for:

• Panel performance warranty: Often 25 years, guaranteeing a certain percentage of original output.
• Product warranties:
  • Panels: typically 10–25 years
  • Inverters: typically 10–15 years (some longer with upgrades)
  • Workmanship: often 5–10+ years from the installer
• Roof penetration warranty: Coverage for leaks where mounts penetrate the roof, often 5–10+ years.

A slightly higher upfront cost for stronger warranties and a reputable installer can pay off in fewer headaches and better production over the system’s life.

Operating and maintenance costs

Solar systems are generally low-maintenance, but:

• Inverters may need replacement once in a 25-year span.
• Monitoring systems help catch issues early, so you don’t lose months of production without noticing.
• Cleaning may be needed in dusty areas, though rain handles it in many climates.

Paying a bit more for quality installation, good wiring practices, and accessible equipment can reduce your need for service visits and protect your roof.

What to expect from a visit or project

Before the pro arrives

• Initial call or online form (15–30 minutes):
  • Share your address, recent electric bills, and basic roof info.
  • Discuss your goals: bill reduction, backup power, EV charging, etc.
• Remote/preliminary design (1–3 days):
  • Installer uses satellite imagery and your usage to draft a system size.
  • You receive a preliminary proposal with system size, layout, estimated production, and pricing.
• Site visit (60–120 minutes):
  • They inspect your roof, attic (if accessible), and main electrical panel.
  • They verify measurements, shading, roof condition, and any needed electrical upgrades.

Typical installation project (new system)

Timeframes vary, but a common sequence is:

• Permits and approvals (2–8 weeks):
  • Installer submits plans to your local building department and utility.
  • You usually don’t handle this yourself, but it’s good to ask about timelines.
• Installation day(s) (1–3 days on site):
  • Day 1:
    • Set up safety equipment and staging.
    • Install roof mounts and rails.
    • Begin panel placement.
  • Day 2 (if needed):
    • Finish panel installation.
    • Install inverter(s), wiring, and any monitoring hardware.
    • Complete electrical connections at the main panel or subpanel.
  • Day 3 (if needed):
    • Final wiring, labeling, and system testing.
• Inspections and utility approval (1–4 weeks):
  • City/county inspector checks structural and electrical work.
  • Utility installs a new meter (if needed) and grants permission to operate (PTO).
• System turn-on:
  • Installer or utility gives you the green light to turn on the system.
  • You get a walkthrough of how to read your monitoring app or portal.

Typical service visit (existing system)

• On-site diagnosis (60–120 minutes):
  • Visual inspection of panels, wiring, and inverter(s).
  • Review monitoring data and error codes.
  • Test electrical connections and production.
• Minor fixes on the spot:
  • Resetting breakers, tightening connections, replacing small components if stocked.
• Follow-up work (if needed):
  • Ordering a replacement inverter or panel.
  • Scheduling a return visit for more complex repairs or roof work.

DIY vs. hire a pro

Solar involves electrical work, roof penetrations, and code compliance, so most tasks should be left to licensed professionals.

Reasonable DIY tasks

• Basic visual checks (from the ground):
  • Look for obvious damage: broken glass, loose conduit, or dangling wires.
  • Check for new shading (tree growth, new structures).
• Monitoring app checks:
  • Review production trends and error alerts.
  • Note dates and patterns to share with your installer.
• Light cleaning (if safe and needed):
  • On a single-story, low-slope roof, some homeowners gently rinse panels with a hose from the ground.
  • Avoid climbing on the roof or using harsh cleaners or pressure washers.

Tasks for licensed pros only

• Electrical work and connections:
  • Anything involving inverters, combiner boxes, main panels, or wiring.
  • Incorrect work can cause fire risk, shock hazards, and code violations.
• Roof penetrations and mounting:
  • Drilling into the roof, installing or moving mounts and flashing.
  • Poor work can cause leaks, structural issues, and voided roof warranties.
• System design and permitting:
  • Sizing the system, designing wiring, and submitting permit plans.
  • Must meet local building codes, fire codes, and utility interconnection rules.
• Battery installation and backup wiring:
  • High-voltage DC and complex transfer switches should be handled only by trained, licensed pros.

For safety and code compliance, treat solar like any other high-voltage electrical project: design, installation, and major repairs belong with licensed, insured installers.

Questions to ask potential pros

• “What licenses and insurance do you carry, and can you provide proof?”
• “How many residential systems have you installed in the last 2–3 years?”
• “Who designs my system—your in-house team or a subcontractor?”
• “Which panel and inverter brands do you recommend, and why?”
• “What is the total installed cost per watt, and what exactly is included?”
  (Permits, monitoring, main panel upgrades, roof work, etc.)
• “What warranties do I get on equipment, workmanship, and roof penetrations?”
  Ask for length of coverage and who backs each warranty.
• “Will you be using subcontractors, and if so, who supervises them?”
• “How do you handle roof leaks or other issues after installation?”
• “What are the estimated production numbers, and what assumptions are you using?”
  (Shading, orientation, degradation rate.)
• “Do you help with incentives and interconnection paperwork?”
• “What are my payment options, and what is the total cost over the life of the loan or lease?”
• “Can you walk me through your typical timeline from contract to turn-on?”

Quick FAQ

How long do solar panels actually last?

Most residential panels are expected to last 25–30+ years. Their output slowly declines over time, but many still produce 80% or more of their original power after 25 years.

Do I need to replace my roof before installing solar?

If your roof is older than 10–15 years or already showing signs of wear, it’s wise to evaluate replacement before going solar. Removing and reinstalling panels later can add thousands of dollars to a re-roofing project.

Will solar work during a power outage?

A standard grid-tied system typically shuts off during outages for safety. To have power when the grid is down, you need a battery system or special backup setup designed and installed by a qualified pro.

Are leases or PPAs a bad idea?

They’re not automatically bad, but they’re complex contracts. They can reduce upfront cost but may affect resale, long-term savings, and flexibility. Always compare them to a purchase (cash or loan) on total cost and savings over 20–25 years.

Wrap-up / next steps

Choosing a solar installer you can trust comes down to clear pricing, solid credentials, strong warranties, and straightforward communication. Look at the age and condition of your roof and electrical system, your budget, and how long you plan to stay in the home to decide what level of investment makes sense.

Gather 2–3 detailed quotes so you can compare system size, equipment, warranties, and total cost per watt—not just the monthly payment. Take your time reading the contract and asking questions until you’re comfortable.

If you’re ready to explore options, you can use a neutral local-pro directory like Home Services Scout to compare licensed solar installers in your area and request multiple quotes. With the right installer and a clear contract, solar can be a reliable, low-maintenance way to cut your electric bills for decades.