Common Plumbing Repairs and What They Typically Cost

Key takeaways

• Most common plumbing repairs are a few hundred dollars. Many everyday fixes (leaky faucets, running toilets, simple drain clogs) often fall in the $125–$350 range, depending on your area and the plumber’s minimum fee.
• Big-ticket issues can run into the thousands. Sewer line problems, major leaks inside walls, or water heater failures can easily reach $1,000+, especially if walls, floors, or landscaping need repair afterward.
• Labor and access drive most of the cost. The parts for many repairs are relatively cheap; the bill grows when the plumber has to open walls, work in tight spaces, or spend hours diagnosing the problem.
• Repair vs. replace often comes down to age and repeat issues. If a fixture or appliance is older and repairs are approaching 50% of replacement cost, it’s often smarter to replace.
• Water damage risk is a big factor. A “small” leak can cause thousands in mold and structural repairs; paying a pro to fix it correctly is usually cheaper than ignoring it.
• Some simple tasks are DIY-friendly, many are not. Swapping a showerhead or plunging a toilet is reasonable; anything involving gas lines, main drains, or opening walls should be handled by a licensed pro.
• Get multiple quotes for anything major. For larger jobs (sewer, repiping, water heater), getting 2–3 estimates helps you understand a fair price and different repair options.

Typical price range

All numbers below are approximate US ballpark ranges for labor and materials, not quotes. Actual prices vary by region, company, time of day, and how complex your home’s plumbing is.

Common plumbing repair cost ranges

• Service call / diagnostic fee: $50–$150
  Often applied toward the repair if you hire that plumber.

• Leaky faucet repair: $125–$350
  Tightening connections, replacing cartridges, washers, or seals.

• New faucet installation (labor only): $150–$350+
  Higher if access is tight or if lines/valves need work.

• Running or leaking toilet repair: $125–$300
  Flapper, fill valve, wax ring, or minor internal parts.

• Toilet replacement (labor + basic toilet): $250–$600+
  More for premium models or if the flange needs repair.

• Minor pipe leak (easy access): $200–$600
  Small section of pipe replaced under a sink or in an unfinished basement.

• Leak in wall or ceiling: $400–$1,200+
  Includes opening and closing walls; does not always include painting or drywall finishing.

• Clogged sink, tub, or shower drain (simple snaking): $125–$300
  If it’s close to the fixture and easily accessible.

• Main sewer line clog (snaking): $250–$600+
  Costs increase if a cleanout needs to be installed or access is difficult.

• Hydro-jetting a main line: $400–$900+
  High-pressure cleaning for heavy buildup or roots.

• Garbage disposal repair or replacement:

  • Simple repair: $125–$250
  • Replacement (unit + labor): $250–$600+

• Water heater repair (tank-style): $150–$600
  Thermostats, elements, valves, or minor leaks.

• Water heater replacement (tank-style): $1,000–$2,500+
  Depends on size, fuel type, venting, and code upgrades.

• Sump pump replacement: $400–$1,000+
  Includes new pump and labor; more if new discharge lines are needed.

• Sewer line repair or partial replacement: $1,000–$6,000+
  Small spot repairs at the lower end; longer sections or tricky access at the higher end.

• Whole-house repiping: $4,000–$15,000+
  Wide range depending on home size, pipe material, and how much drywall must be opened.

What tends to push costs lower

• Easy access: Exposed pipes in basements or crawlspaces, or fixtures with clear working room.
• Simple, localized issues: A single leaking trap vs. multiple leaks or widespread corrosion.
• Standard, mid-range parts: Basic faucets, toilets, and valves instead of designer or specialty items.
• Weekday, normal hours: Avoiding emergency nights/weekend rates when possible.
• Existing shutoff valves and cleanouts: Makes isolating and clearing problems faster.

What tends to push costs higher

• Emergency calls: Nights, weekends, and holidays often add after-hours premiums.
• Hidden or buried plumbing: Pipes in finished walls, under slabs, or in tight crawlspaces.
• Old or mixed materials: Galvanized steel, old cast iron, or DIY “patchwork” systems take longer to work on.
• Code upgrades: Adding shutoff valves, expansion tanks, or new venting to meet current codes.
• Restoration work: Drywall, tile, flooring, or landscaping repairs after the plumbing is fixed (often a separate cost).

Repair vs. replacement

Deciding whether to repair or replace comes down to age, condition, cost, and risk.

General rules of thumb

• If the repair is under 30% of replacement cost and the fixture/appliance is in good shape, repair usually makes sense.
• If the repair is over 50% of replacement cost, or you’ve had repeated issues, replacement is often smarter.
• Consider age and expected lifespan:
  • Toilets, tubs, sinks: 20–50+ years (often replaced for style, not failure).
  • Faucets: 10–20 years.
  • Tank water heaters: 8–12 years on average.
  • Tankless water heaters: 15–20+ years with maintenance.
  • Supply piping:
    • Copper/PEX: several decades.
    • Old galvanized: often near or past end of life.

Example: Water heater decision

• Your 10-year-old tank water heater starts leaking around the base.
• A plumber quotes $600 to replace a failing component and try to extend its life.
• A comparable new water heater, installed, is quoted at $1,500.

In this case:

• The repair is 40% of the replacement cost, and the heater is already at typical lifespan.
• There’s a good chance you’ll face more issues soon, plus the risk of a major leak.

Practical choice: Put the $600 toward a full replacement, especially if the tank itself is leaking.

Example: Faucet repair vs. replacement

• Your 8-year-old kitchen faucet drips constantly.
• Repair (new cartridge and seals) is quoted at $175.
• A new mid-range faucet plus installation is $350–$500.

If you like the current faucet and it’s otherwise in good shape, the repair at ~35–50% of replacement can be reasonable. But if you’ve had multiple issues or want a style upgrade, paying a bit more for a new unit may be worth it.

Efficiency and long-term costs

Plumbing doesn’t just affect repair bills; it also affects your water and energy costs over time.

Where efficiency matters most

• Water heaters:
  • Higher-efficiency models can cost more upfront but use less gas or electricity.
  • Over 10–15 years, that can save hundreds of dollars, especially for larger households.
• Toilets:
  • Older toilets may use 3.5–5 gallons per flush.
  • Modern models use around 1.28–1.6 gallons, cutting water use significantly.
• Faucets and showerheads:
  • Low-flow options reduce water and hot water use, lowering both water and energy bills.

When paying more upfront can pay off

• Old, inefficient water heater:
  • Replacing a failing, inefficient unit with a more efficient one may add a few hundred dollars upfront but reduce monthly bills and provide more reliable hot water.
• Chronic leaks:
  • Slow leaks can waste hundreds or thousands of gallons per year. Fixing them promptly saves on your water bill and prevents costly damage.
• Upgrading old piping:
  • Replacing failing galvanized or corroded pipes can be expensive, but it reduces the risk of bursts, discolored water, and ongoing leak repairs.

Think in terms of total cost over 5–10 years, not just today’s bill: repair costs, water/energy use, and the risk of damage all play a role.

What to expect from a visit or project

Before the pro arrives

• Describe the problem clearly: Note when it started, any noises, smells, or visible leaks, and whether it’s constant or intermittent.
• Take photos or videos: Especially for intermittent leaks or noises; this can save diagnostic time.
• Clear the work area: Remove items from under sinks, around toilets, or near water heaters.
• Know your shutoffs: If possible, know where your main water shutoff is in case the issue worsens before the visit.
• Ask about fees upfront: Confirm the service call fee, hourly vs. flat-rate pricing, and any after-hours charges.

Typical repair visit (1–3 hours for many jobs)

• Arrival and assessment (15–30 minutes):

  • The plumber listens to your description, inspects the area, and may test fixtures or lines.
  • They identify likely causes and, if needed, discuss further diagnostic steps (e.g., camera inspection for sewer issues at extra cost).

• Estimate and approval (10–20 minutes):

  • You’ll usually get a written or digital estimate before work starts.
  • For simple repairs, they may give a flat price on the spot.

• Repair work (30–120+ minutes):

  • Shutting off water or gas to the affected area.
  • Disassembling fixtures, cutting out damaged pipe, or snaking a drain.
  • Installing new parts or piping and reassembling.

• Testing and cleanup (15–30 minutes):

  • Turning water back on and checking for leaks.
  • Flushing toilets, running faucets, or testing drains.
  • Basic cleanup of the work area; drywall/paint repair may be a separate trade or visit.

Typical replacement project

Fixture replacement (toilet, faucet, disposal) – usually 1–3 hours

• Removal of old unit: Draining, disconnecting, and hauling away (if included).
• Prep and installation: Adjusting connections, installing new shutoffs if needed.
• Testing: Checking for leaks, proper operation, and making final adjustments.

Water heater replacement – usually half day

• Drain and remove old unit (1–2 hours).
• Install new heater (1–2 hours):
  • Connect water, gas/electric, and venting.
  • Add expansion tank or drip pan if required by code.
• Fill, test, and adjust (30–60 minutes).

Larger projects (sewer repair, repiping) – 1–5+ days

• Planning and permits (varies):
  • For major work, permits and inspections are often required.
• Access and demolition (hours to days):
  • Digging, trenching, or opening walls/floors.
• Pipe replacement or repair (1–3+ days):
  • Installing new lines, connecting to existing systems.
• Inspection and restoration (varies):
  • City/municipal inspection if required.
  • Backfilling, patching concrete, and basic wall repair (finish work like painting may be separate).

DIY vs. hire a pro

Reasonable DIY tasks for a handy homeowner

If you’re comfortable with basic tools and follow instructions carefully, you might handle:

• Plunging toilets and drains:
  • Use a proper plunger and avoid harsh chemicals that can damage pipes.
• Cleaning simple sink and tub traps:
  • Removing and cleaning the P-trap under a sink (with a bucket ready).
• Replacing faucet aerators and showerheads:
  • Straightforward swap that can improve flow and reduce water use.
• Replacing toilet flappers and fill valves:
  • Many kits are designed for DIY; turn off the toilet shutoff valve first.
• Minor cosmetic fixes:
  • Replacing escutcheon plates, caulking around tubs/sinks (not structural).

Tasks that should be left to licensed pros

For safety, code compliance, and to protect your home, hire a licensed plumber for:

• Gas line work of any kind:
  • Water heaters, gas dryers, stoves, or any gas piping. Gas leaks are extremely dangerous and require a pro.
• Main water line or sewer line issues:
  • Backups, root intrusion, or line replacement need specialized tools and knowledge.
• Work behind walls, ceilings, or under slabs:
  • Hidden leaks, repiping, or rerouting lines can affect structure and require permits.
• Water heater repairs or replacement:
  • Involves high voltage or gas, pressure, and venting; mistakes can be hazardous.
• Major leaks or burst pipes:
  • Quick, correct repairs are critical to avoid mold and structural damage.
• Anything requiring permits or inspections:
  • Local codes often require a licensed pro for permitted work.

When in doubt, err on the side of hiring a pro, especially where water damage, gas, or electrical components are involved.

Questions to ask potential pros

• “Do you charge a flat rate or hourly, and what is your service call fee?”
• “Can you provide a written estimate before starting work?”
• “What’s included in this price—parts, labor, haul-away, and basic cleanup?”
• “If you find additional issues, how will you handle changes to the estimate?”
• “Are permits or inspections required for this job, and do you handle them?”
• “Are you licensed and insured, and can you provide your license number?”
• “What warranties do you offer on your labor and on the parts or fixtures?”
• “Will you be doing the work yourself, or will an apprentice/crew handle it?”
• “How long do you expect this repair or replacement to take?”
• “Will this work bring my system up to current code?”
• “What should I do if the problem comes back after the repair?”
• “Do you offer options—for example, a basic repair vs. a longer-term solution?”

Quick FAQ

Will my homeowners insurance cover plumbing repairs?

Typically, insurance does not cover the cost of fixing worn-out plumbing itself, but it may cover sudden and accidental water damage (like from a burst pipe), minus your deductible. Slow leaks and long-term neglect are often excluded. Check your policy or speak with your insurer for specifics.

How often should I have my plumbing inspected?

For most homes, a basic plumbing check every few years is reasonable, and more often if you have an older home or past issues. Annual checks are smart if you have a basement that’s prone to water problems, an older water heater, or a history of sewer backups.

Are chemical drain cleaners safe to use?

Many harsh chemical cleaners can damage older pipes, especially metal ones, and can be hazardous to handle. Occasional use of gentler products may be fine, but repeated clogs should be addressed with mechanical cleaning (plunging/snaking) or by a pro.

How can I tell if I have a hidden leak?

Warning signs include unexplained high water bills, musty smells, wall or ceiling stains, or damp spots on floors. If you suspect a hidden leak, shut off fixtures, check your water meter, and call a plumber for leak detection.

Wrap-up / next steps

Most common plumbing repairs fall in the low hundreds of dollars, but ignoring them can lead to far more expensive water damage and disruption. Think about the age and condition of your fixtures and systems, the cost of the repair vs. replacement, and the risk if the problem gets worse.

For small, straightforward issues, a single visit from a reputable plumber may be all you need. For larger jobs—like water heater replacement, sewer work, or repiping—getting 2–3 detailed quotes is wise so you can compare scope, pricing, and long-term options.

You can use a neutral local-pro directory like Home Services Scout to quickly compare licensed plumbers in your area, check reviews, and request estimates. With clear information and the right questions, you can tackle plumbing problems calmly, protect your home, and keep surprises to a minimum.