What Does It Really Cost to Install an Inground Pool?

Key takeaways

• Most inground pools cost five figures to build. A new inground pool typically runs $45,000–$120,000+ installed, depending on size, material, soil conditions, and add-ons.
• Construction method is a huge cost driver. Vinyl liner pools are usually cheapest upfront, fiberglass sits in the middle, and gunite/shotcrete (concrete) is often the most expensive but most customizable.
• Add-ons can double your budget. Features like spas, waterfalls, automation, high-end decking, and safety covers can add $10,000–$60,000+ on top of the basic shell.
• Ownership costs are real and ongoing. Expect $1,500–$5,000 per year for chemicals, electricity, water, minor repairs, and opening/closing in many climates.
• Energy-efficient equipment can pay off. Variable-speed pumps, efficient heaters, and good covers may cost more upfront but can cut operating costs 30–60% over time.
• Site conditions and access matter. Tight yards, rocky soil, utilities relocation, and retaining walls can add thousands to tens of thousands to the project.
• Plan carefully and get multiple quotes. With so many variables, it’s smart to compare 2–3 detailed bids and make sure you understand what is—and isn’t—included.

Typical price range

All numbers below are approximate US ballpark ranges for residential inground pools. Local labor rates, material prices, and site conditions can shift these significantly.

Base pool installation (no major extras)

• Small vinyl liner pool (about 12' × 24'):
  $35,000–$55,000
  Basic rectangular shape, standard depth, minimal decking, standard pump and filter.

• Medium vinyl liner pool (about 16' × 32'):
  $45,000–$70,000
  More decking, basic lighting, simple steps, and standard equipment.

• Small fiberglass pool shell (about 12' × 24'):
  $45,000–$70,000
  Factory-molded shell, crane set, basic plumbing and equipment, modest concrete deck.

• Medium fiberglass pool (about 14' × 30'):
  $55,000–$85,000
  Popular size with built-in steps/benches, upgraded pump, and a bit more decking.

• Gunite/shotcrete (concrete) pool, basic design (about 15' × 30'):
  $70,000–$110,000
  Custom-shaped shell, plaster finish, standard tile, basic decking, and equipment.

• Large, custom concrete pool (over 20' × 40'):
  $100,000–$200,000+
  Complex shapes, deep ends, high-end finishes, extensive decking, and features.

Common add-ons and upgrades

These are on top of the base pool price:

• Extra decking/patio:

  • Basic broom-finished concrete: $8–$18 per sq. ft.
  • Stamped or decorative concrete: $16–$30 per sq. ft.
  • Pavers or natural stone: $20–$50+ per sq. ft.

• Attached spa (inground):
  $10,000–$30,000+ depending on size, material, and jets.

• Automatic pool cover:
  $10,000–$20,000+ installed, but can significantly reduce heating and chemical costs.

• Heater (gas, electric, or heat pump):
  $3,000–$8,000 installed, depending on type and size.

• Saltwater chlorine generator:
  $1,500–$3,500 installed.

• Water features (sheer descents, deck jets, small waterfalls):
  $1,500–$15,000+ depending on complexity.

• Lighting upgrades (LED, color-changing, multiple fixtures):
  $1,000–$5,000.

• Automation system (phone/app control):
  $2,000–$7,000.

Site and construction extras

These can be invisible in photos but big in your budget:

• Permits and engineering: $500–$5,000+
• Soil issues (rock, high water table, poor drainage): $2,000–$25,000+
• Retaining walls / major grading: $5,000–$40,000+
• Utility relocation (septic, gas, electric, drainage): $1,000–$15,000+
• Fencing for code-compliant barrier: $3,000–$15,000+

Ongoing ownership costs (annual ballparks)

• Chemicals and testing supplies: $400–$1,000 per year
• Electricity for pump, lights, and heater (if used): $600–$2,500+ per year
  (Wide range depending on climate, heater type, and pump efficiency.)
• Opening/closing service (if you hire it): $300–$900 per year
• Routine maintenance (cleaning, minor repairs): $200–$1,000+ per year
• Major periodic items (averaged out):
  • Vinyl liner replacement every 8–15 years: $4,000–$10,000
  • Plaster resurfacing every 10–20 years: $8,000–$25,000+
  • Equipment replacement (pump, filter, heater over many years): average $300–$1,000+ per year when spread out.

What tends to push costs lower vs. higher

Lower-cost scenarios:

• Simple shapes and smaller sizes (rectangles cost less than freeform curves).
• Vinyl or smaller fiberglass shells instead of custom concrete.
• Good access for equipment (wide side yard, minimal landscaping to remove).
• Standard finishes and basic decking instead of premium tile or stone.
• Minimal extras (no spa, simple lighting, no elaborate water features).

Higher-cost scenarios:

• Large, deep, or complex shapes, especially with tanning ledges, benches, or islands.
• Custom concrete pools with high-end plaster or tile finishes.
• Challenging sites (slopes, rock, high water table, tight access).
• Extensive hardscaping and landscaping around the pool.
• High-end features like spas, fire bowls, automation, and big waterfalls.
• Stricter local codes requiring specific fencing, alarms, or engineering.

Repair vs. replacement: when to upgrade vs. maintain

Even a new pool will eventually need repairs. The big decision is how long to maintain what you have versus when it’s smarter to replace or do major renovations.

General rules of thumb

• Vinyl liner pools:

  • Repair/patch small tears or leaks in a relatively new liner (under 8–10 years) if the fix is under 20–30% of a new liner cost.
  • Replace the liner when it’s faded, brittle, or over 10–15 years old, or if multiple leaks keep appearing.
  • If the walls or structure are failing, you may be looking at a major renovation rather than a simple liner swap.

• Fiberglass pools:

  • Spot repairs to gelcoat blisters or small cracks can be cost-effective if structurally sound.
  • Consider major resurfacing or replacement if the shell has widespread structural issues or severe bulging, especially if repair quotes approach 40–50% of a new pool.

• Concrete (gunite/shotcrete) pools:

  • Resurface when plaster is rough, stained, or pitted but structure is sound.
  • Major renovation or partial rebuild if there are significant structural cracks, shifting, or chronic leaks that require extensive demo and rebar work.

• Equipment:

  • Repair pumps, filters, and heaters when they’re relatively new and the fix is under 30–40% of replacement cost.
  • Replace older, inefficient equipment (10–15+ years) or units with repeated failures—especially if upgrading to more efficient models.

Concrete example

Imagine you have a 15-year-old vinyl liner pool:

• New liner quote: $6,500
• Patching and leak repair quote: $1,800, with no guarantee it will last more than a season or two.

In this case, the repair is about 28% of the full replacement cost. Because the liner is already at or past typical lifespan and the repair may be short-lived, many homeowners decide that spending more now on a new liner is smarter than chasing repeated repairs.

By contrast, if your 5-year-old pump stops working:

• Repair quote: $350
• New, similar pump: $1,000 installed.

Here, the repair is only 35% of replacement, and the pump is relatively young. Repairing likely makes sense unless you’re planning to upgrade to a more efficient variable-speed model for long-term savings.

Efficiency and long-term costs

Inground pools don’t just cost money to build—they cost money to run every month. A slightly higher upfront budget can sometimes save thousands over the life of the pool.

Where efficiency really matters

• Pumps:

  • Single-speed pumps are cheaper upfront but can be energy hogs.
  • Variable-speed pumps cost more initially (often $1,200–$2,500 installed) but can cut electricity use by 50–70% in many setups.
  • Over several years, the energy savings often outweigh the price difference, especially in areas with higher power rates or long swimming seasons.

• Heaters:

  • Gas heaters heat quickly but can be costly to run if used heavily.
  • Heat pumps are more efficient in many climates but cost more to buy.
  • Choosing the right size and type for your climate and usage can significantly affect monthly bills.

• Covers:

  • Solar covers are relatively inexpensive and can reduce heat loss and evaporation.
  • Automatic safety covers are pricey but can dramatically cut heating, chemical, and water costs while improving safety.
  • Even simple covers can reduce debris and maintenance time.

• Lighting:

  • LED lights use far less energy and last longer than older incandescent fixtures.
  • They cost more upfront but typically pay off in reduced bulb changes and electricity.

• Filtration and plumbing design:

  • Properly sized filters and efficient plumbing runs reduce how hard the pump has to work.
  • A good installer will design the system to minimize friction and wasted energy.

Balancing upfront vs. lifetime cost

• If you plan to stay in the home 5+ years, it’s often worth:

  • Upgrading to a variable-speed pump.
  • Considering a more efficient heater or heat pump.
  • Investing in a good cover you’ll actually use.

• If you’re unsure how long you’ll stay:

  • Focus on reliable, code-compliant equipment and simple, low-maintenance finishes.
  • Avoid overbuilding with features you may not fully enjoy before moving.

What to expect from a visit or project

Installing an inground pool is a major construction project, not a quick weekend job. Knowing the steps helps you plan for noise, yard disruption, and timelines.

Before the pro arrives

• Initial consultation (1–2 hours):

  • Discuss your goals, budget, and how you’ll use the pool.
  • Review yard layout, access points, and potential challenges.
  • Talk about materials (vinyl, fiberglass, concrete), size, and features.

• Design and proposal (a few days to a few weeks):

  • The contractor creates a layout and cost estimate.
  • You review options for shape, depth, finishes, and add-ons.
  • Revisions are common; expect some back-and-forth.

• Permits and approvals (2–8+ weeks, varies widely):

  • The contractor typically submits plans for building permits and any required engineering.
  • You may need HOA approval if applicable.
  • Timelines depend heavily on local processes.

Typical construction project

Timelines vary, but many inground pool projects run 6–12+ weeks from breaking ground to swimming, depending on method and complexity.

1. Layout and excavation (1–5 days)

• The crew marks the pool outline and checks for utilities.
• Heavy equipment excavates the hole.
• Soil is hauled away or re-used on site.
• Expect noise, dust, and yard disruption.

2. Structural work (3–14 days)

Varies by pool type:

• Vinyl liner:

  • Steel or polymer wall panels installed and braced.
  • Floor is shaped and prepared (often with sand or vermiculite).
  • Plumbing lines are run.

• Fiberglass:

  • Crane sets the shell into the excavation.
  • Leveling and backfilling with sand or gravel.
  • Plumbing connections made.

• Concrete (gunite/shotcrete):

  • Steel rebar cage installed.
  • Concrete shell is sprayed and shaped.
  • Shell cures for several weeks before final finishes.

3. Plumbing, electrical, and equipment (2–7 days)

• Install skimmers, returns, drains, and lines.
• Run electrical conduit and wiring for pump, lights, and equipment.
• Set and connect pump, filter, heater, and automation.
• This work should be done by licensed professionals to meet code and safety standards.

4. Decking and hardscape (3–14+ days)

• Form and pour concrete decking or install pavers/stone.
• Allow for curing time before heavy use.
• Additional patios, walkways, or retaining walls may be built.

5. Interior finish and filling (1–3 days)

• Vinyl: Liner is installed, smoothed, and locked into place.
• Fiberglass: Final leveling and plumbing checks; some may get topcoat touch-ups.
• Concrete: Plaster, pebble, or other finish is applied.

Once finished, the pool is filled with water (from your hose or a water delivery service).

6. Startup and orientation (1–2 days)

• The pro balances chemicals and starts equipment.

• You get a walkthrough on how to:

  • Operate the pump, filter, and heater.
  • Use the cover and any automation.
  • Test and maintain water chemistry.

• Final inspections are completed as required by local code.

DIY vs. hire a pro

Some tasks around a pool are reasonable for a handy homeowner; others are safety-critical and should always be left to licensed pros.

Reasonable DIY tasks

• Basic water testing and chemical balancing:

  • Using test strips or a test kit.
  • Adding chlorine, pH adjusters, and other basic chemicals per instructions.

• Routine cleaning:

  • Skimming leaves and debris.
  • Brushing walls and vacuuming.
  • Emptying skimmer and pump baskets.

• Simple maintenance items:

  • Replacing skimmer baskets or pump lids.
  • Cleaning or backwashing filters (following manufacturer instructions).
  • Replacing light bulbs in low-voltage fixtures (if accessible and safe to do so).

• Minor cosmetic touch-ups:

  • Small vinyl liner patch kits (when clearly above waterline or very minor).
  • Simple caulking around deck joints.

Tasks for licensed pros only

Because of safety, code, and warranty issues, these should be left to qualified contractors:

• New pool installation or major structural changes:

  • Excavation, shell installation, and any structural modifications.

• Electrical work:

  • Wiring pumps, heaters, and lights.
  • Bonding and grounding the pool structure and equipment.
  • Any work near water and high-voltage power is dangerous and heavily regulated.

• Gas line installation or modification:

  • Gas heaters must be connected and vented properly to avoid fire and carbon monoxide risks.

• Plumbing changes and underground repairs:

  • Fixing buried leaks, replacing main drains, or re-running lines.

• Major liner, fiberglass, or plaster work:

  • Liner replacements, shell repairs, and resurfacing require specialized tools and experience.

• Structural repairs and retaining walls:

  • Anything that affects soil stability or supports your pool and deck.

Even if you’re handy, it’s wise to consult a pro before tackling anything that could affect safety, structural integrity, or code compliance.

Questions to ask potential pros

When you’re interviewing pool builders or major repair contractors, use questions like these to clarify scope, cost, and quality:

• What type of pool do you recommend for my yard and budget, and why?
• Can you provide a detailed, itemized quote showing what’s included (and excluded)?
• How do you handle permits, inspections, and engineering? Is that included in the price?
• What site conditions could increase the cost (rock, water table, access issues), and how will those be handled if discovered?
• What brand and model level of equipment are you quoting, and are there more efficient options?
• What is the estimated project timeline from permit approval to first swim, and what could delay it?
• What warranties do you offer on the pool structure, finishes, and equipment, and how are warranty claims handled?
• Who will actually be on site doing the work? Your own crew or subcontractors?
• How do you handle changes and extras during the project, and how are they priced and approved?
• What safety features are included (fencing, alarms, covers), and what will I need to add to meet local codes?
• How much disruption should I expect to my yard and neighbors (noise, access, cleanup)?
• Do you provide startup training and written maintenance instructions once the pool is complete?

Quick FAQ

How long does an inground pool typically last?

• The structure of a well-built concrete or fiberglass pool can last decades (often 25+ years) with proper care.
• Vinyl liners usually last 8–15 years before needing replacement, but the underlying structure can last much longer.

Will a pool increase my home’s value?

• A pool can increase appeal and value for some buyers, especially in warmer climates, but it rarely returns 100% of the installation cost.
• Think of a pool primarily as a lifestyle investment, with resale value as a secondary benefit.

Are inground pools covered by homeowners insurance?

• Many policies provide some coverage for pool-related liability and certain types of damage, but details vary.
• You may need to increase liability limits and meet specific safety requirements (fencing, covers). It’s best to check with your insurer before building.

How long does it take before I can swim?

• From breaking ground, many projects take 6–12 weeks, but delays from weather, permitting, or materials can extend that.
• Ask your contractor for a realistic timeline and what could affect it in your area.

Wrap-up and next steps

Installing an inground pool is a big decision that blends upfront construction costs with long-term ownership and maintenance. Your best choice depends on how you’ll use the pool, how long you’ll stay in the home, your yard conditions, and your budget.

• If you want lower upfront cost, a vinyl liner or smaller fiberglass pool with simple decking and minimal extras can keep things more manageable.
• If you’re planning a “forever home” backyard retreat, a custom concrete pool with efficient equipment and thoughtful features may be worth the higher investment.
• Always factor in annual operating costs and consider upgrading to efficient pumps, heaters, and covers where they make financial sense over time.

Because pricing is so project-specific, it’s wise to get 2–3 detailed quotes from reputable pool builders. Compare not just the bottom line, but materials, equipment, warranties, and what’s included in each bid.

If you’re ready to explore options, you can use a neutral local-pro directory like Home Services Scout to compare qualified pool contractors in your area and request estimates. With clear information and the right team, you can move forward confidently and enjoy a pool that fits your home, your lifestyle, and your budget.