How Much Does a New AC Unit Cost?

Homeowners usually only shop for a new AC when the old one is noisy, unreliable, or completely dead—often in the middle of a heatwave. Understanding typical installed costs and what affects the price can help you make a calmer, smarter decision. A well-chosen system can improve comfort, lower energy bills, and even boost resale value.

Key takeaways

• Most new central AC systems cost $4,500–$12,000 installed. Smaller, basic systems can be less; large, high-efficiency or complex installs can be more.
• System type matters a lot. A basic window unit might be a few hundred dollars, while a whole-home ducted system or multi-zone heat pump can run into the tens of thousands.
• Efficiency (SEER2 rating) changes both upfront and long-term costs. Higher-efficiency units cost more to install but can save hundreds per year in electricity in hot climates.
• Age and repair costs guide the “repair vs. replace” decision. If your system is 10–15+ years old and a repair is more than ~30–40% of replacement cost, replacement often makes more sense.
• Installation complexity can swing prices thousands of dollars. Existing ductwork, electrical capacity, refrigerant line runs, and access to the unit all affect labor time and cost.
• Permits, code, and refrigerant handling require licensed pros. Anything involving electrical work, refrigerant, or structural changes should be done by a qualified, licensed contractor.
• Always get 2–3 quotes. Labor rates and system recommendations can vary; comparing local pros (for example through Home Services Scout) helps you see a fair range.

Typical price range

All numbers below are approximate US ballpark ranges for equipment plus professional installation. Actual costs will vary with home size, layout, efficiency level, and local labor rates.

Common installed AC scenarios

• Window AC unit (single room):

  • DIY purchase only: $200–$700 per unit
  • With pro install (e.g., for tricky windows or upper floors): $300–$900 total

• Through-the-wall or PTAC unit (single room/suite):

  • Unit only: $800–$2,000
  • Installed: $1,200–$3,000 (cutting wall opening, electrical, finishing)

• Ductless mini-split (single-zone):

  • 9,000–18,000 BTU (one room or small area): $2,500–$6,000 installed
  • Good for additions, bonus rooms, garages, or homes without ducts.

• Ductless mini-split (multi-zone, 2–4 indoor heads):

  • Typical range: $5,000–$15,000+ installed
  • Costs rise with number of zones, line length, and efficiency.

• Central AC (condenser + coil, using existing ducts):

  • Small home (1.5–2.5 tons, ~800–1,500 sq. ft.): $4,500–$8,000 installed
  • Average home (3–4 tons, ~1,500–2,500 sq. ft.): $6,000–$11,000 installed
  • Larger home (5+ tons, 2 systems, or complex layouts): $9,000–$18,000+ installed

• New central AC with new ductwork:

  • Typical range: $8,000–$20,000+
  • Depends heavily on home layout, number of registers, and accessibility (attic vs. crawlspace).

• High-efficiency heat pump (for both heating and cooling):

  • Single-zone ductless or small ducted system: $4,000–$10,000 installed
  • Whole-home multi-zone or large ducted system: $8,000–$20,000+ installed

What tends to push costs lower

• Smaller home or fewer zones. Less capacity, fewer components, and less labor.
• Existing, usable ductwork. Reusing ducts can save several thousand dollars.
• Basic efficiency (meeting code minimums only). Lower SEER2 units are cheaper upfront.
• Easy access. Ground-level outdoor unit, open basement or easily accessed attic, short refrigerant line runs.
• Straight swap. Replacing “like for like” with minimal electrical or structural changes.

What tends to push costs higher

• Larger capacity systems. Bigger homes or poor insulation need more tonnage and larger equipment.
• High-efficiency or variable-speed units. Higher SEER2 ratings and advanced controls cost more initially.
• New or major ductwork changes. Adding returns, sealing/leak repairs, or full duct replacement adds significant labor.
• Difficult access. Tight crawlspaces, steep roofs, long line sets, or crane access for rooftop units.
• Electrical upgrades. New circuits, panel upgrades, or code-required disconnects and surge protection.
• Permits and inspections. Required in many areas and usually included in pro quotes, but they add to the total.

Repair vs. replacement

When your current AC is struggling, the first question is often: fix it or replace it? There’s no one-size-fits-all answer, but some rules of thumb help.

When repair is usually reasonable

• System age under ~8–10 years.
• Repair cost under ~20–25% of a comparable new system.
• Good service history. No frequent breakdowns, and your energy bills haven’t spiked.
• Minor issues. Thermostat problems, capacitor replacement, contactors, or small refrigerant leaks.

Example:

• Your 7-year-old central AC needs a new capacitor and contactor.
• Repair quote: $400.
• Comparable replacement: ~$8,000.
• $400 is 5% of replacement cost, and the unit is relatively young. Repair is usually the smart move.

When replacement starts to make more sense

• System age 12–15+ years. Many central AC units last around 12–18 years with good maintenance; after that, failures become more common.
• Repair cost over ~30–40% of a new system.
• Frequent breakdowns. Multiple service calls in recent seasons.
• Outdated refrigerant. Older systems using phased-out refrigerants can be expensive to recharge and maintain.
• Poor comfort or high bills. If some rooms are always hot and energy costs are high, a new, properly sized system may fix both.

Example:

• Your 14-year-old central AC has a failed compressor.
• Repair quote: $2,500.
• New mid-range system: ~$7,500 installed.
• The repair is ~33% of the cost of a new system, and the unit is near the end of its typical lifespan. In this case, many homeowners choose replacement to avoid sinking money into an aging system.

The “$5,000 rule” (rough guide)

Some pros use a simple formula:

• Age of system × repair cost.
• If the result is more than 5,000, replacement is often worth considering.

Example:

• 12-year-old unit × $500 repair = 6,000 → Consider replacement.
• 5-year-old unit × $500 repair = 2,500 → Repair is usually fine.

This is just a guideline, but it’s a helpful way to frame the decision.

Efficiency and long-term costs

Your AC’s efficiency rating directly affects your monthly electric bill. In the US, newer systems use SEER2 ratings (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio 2). Higher numbers mean more cooling per unit of electricity.

How efficiency affects your wallet

• Code-minimum systems (lower SEER2):

  • Lower upfront cost.
  • Higher operating cost.
  • Often fine for smaller homes or mild climates where AC use is limited.

• Mid-range efficiency:

  • Moderate upfront cost increase vs. minimum.
  • Noticeable bill savings in warm climates.
  • Often the best balance of cost vs. benefit for many homeowners.

• High-efficiency / variable-speed systems:

  • Higher upfront cost (sometimes $1,500–$4,000 more).
  • Lower monthly bills and better comfort (more even temperatures, lower humidity).
  • Payback can be 5–10+ years, depending on usage and local electricity rates.

Example of long-term savings

• Old 10–12 SEER system vs. new 15–18 SEER2 system.
• If your current summer electric bill is $200/month and roughly half is AC, that’s $100/month for cooling.
• A more efficient unit might cut that by 20–40%, saving $20–$40/month during cooling season.
• Over 5 years of heavy use, that can be $1,200–$2,400+ in savings, partially offsetting the higher purchase price.

Other long-term cost factors

• Maintenance needs. All systems benefit from annual professional tune-ups and filter changes; skipping these can shorten lifespan and raise bills.
• Duct condition. Leaky or undersized ducts waste energy and reduce comfort. Sealing or upgrading ducts can improve performance of a new unit.
• Thermostat and controls. A programmable or smart thermostat can improve comfort and reduce wasted cooling.

What to expect from a visit or project

Knowing the typical steps can make the process less stressful and help you spot a thorough, professional installer.

Before the pro arrives

• Gather info (10–15 minutes):
  • Model and age of your current system (if known).
  • Any past repair invoices.
  • Notes about comfort problems (hot rooms, noise, humidity).
• Clear access (10–20 minutes):
  • Move items away from the indoor unit, outdoor condenser, and electrical panel.
  • Secure pets and ensure someone 18+ is home to approve work.

Typical evaluation / estimate visit (for replacement)

• Initial conversation (10–20 minutes):
  • Discuss problems, budget, and any must-haves (quiet operation, better filtration, zoning).
• Home and system inspection (30–60 minutes):
  • Measure or confirm square footage and layout.
  • Inspect existing ductwork, electrical, and refrigerant lines.
  • Check current system size (tonnage) and condition.
• Load and sizing discussion (10–20 minutes):
  • Some pros perform a formal load calculation; others use rules of thumb plus experience.
  • They’ll recommend system size and type (central, ductless, heat pump).
• Quote and options (15–30 minutes):
  • Present 1–3 system options (e.g., good/better/best).
  • Explain efficiency ratings, warranties, and any needed extras (ductwork, electrical).
  • Provide a written estimate, often the same day.

Typical replacement project

For a straightforward central AC replacement using existing ducts:

• Arrival and setup (30–60 minutes):

  • Confirm scope and location of equipment.
  • Protect floors and pathways with drop cloths.
  • Shut off power and recover refrigerant (required by law).

• Removal of old equipment (1–3 hours):

  • Disconnect electrical, refrigerant lines, and drain lines.
  • Remove indoor coil/air handler or furnace coil and outdoor condenser.
  • Haul away old equipment (usually included).

• Install new equipment (3–8 hours, sometimes longer):

  • Set new outdoor unit on pad or stand.
  • Install new indoor coil/air handler or match to existing furnace.
  • Run or reconnect refrigerant lines and drain lines.
  • Make electrical connections and install new disconnects or surge protection if needed.
  • Pressure test and evacuate lines, then charge the system with refrigerant.

• Duct and airflow adjustments (0–3+ hours):

  • Seal obvious duct leaks near the unit.
  • Adjust dampers and registers.
  • Install new return or supply runs if required (adds time and cost).

• Startup and testing (1–2 hours):

  • Check refrigerant charge, airflow, and electrical readings.
  • Verify thermostat operation and test all modes.
  • Walk you through filter changes, thermostat use, and basic maintenance.

Most straightforward replacements are completed in one day. More complex projects (new ductwork, multi-zone mini-splits, major electrical work) can take 2–3 days or more.

DIY vs. hire a pro

Air conditioning systems involve high-voltage electricity, pressurized refrigerant, and building codes. That means most of the work should be left to licensed professionals.

Reasonable DIY tasks

These are generally safe for a handy homeowner and can help your system run better:

• Basic filter changes. Replace or clean filters every 1–3 months, depending on type and usage.
• Clearing debris around the outdoor unit. Keep at least 2–3 feet of clearance around the condenser and gently hose off leaves and dirt (power off first).
• Simple thermostat tasks. Changing batteries, adjusting programming, or replacing with a similar low-voltage thermostat (if you’re comfortable and follow instructions).
• Cleaning accessible vents and returns. Vacuum dust from grilles to improve airflow.

Tasks that should be left to licensed pros

For safety, code compliance, and warranty protection, leave these to professionals:

• New system installation or replacement. Sizing, refrigerant handling, and electrical work require training and often permits.
• Refrigerant work of any kind. Federal law requires certification to handle refrigerants; improper charging can damage your system and harm the environment.
• Electrical modifications. Running new circuits, upgrading breakers, or working inside panels is dangerous and must meet code.
• Duct modifications or structural changes. Cutting into framing, fire barriers, or exterior walls can create safety and code issues.
• Diagnosing complex problems. Short cycling, freezing coils, compressor failures, or control board issues need proper tools and expertise.

When in doubt, err on the side of hiring a pro, especially for anything that could affect safety, insurance coverage, or home value.

Questions to ask potential pros

When you’re collecting quotes, ask each contractor similar questions so you can compare apples to apples:

• “What system size (tons/BTUs) are you recommending, and how did you determine that?”
• “What SEER2 (or efficiency range) are you proposing, and why that level for my home and usage?”
• “Is this a like-for-like replacement, or are you changing the type or location of equipment?”
• “Does your quote include all permits, inspections, and disposal of the old unit?”
• “What’s included in the price—ductwork changes, thermostat, pad/stand, electrical upgrades, surge protection?”
• “Are there any potential extra costs that aren’t in this estimate?”
• “What warranties do I get on equipment and on your labor, and who handles warranty claims?”
• “How long will the installation take, and will I be without cooling during that time?”
• “Do you handle refrigerant recovery and charging according to current regulations?”
• “Will you check and balance my ductwork and airflow as part of the install?”
• “What maintenance do you recommend, and do you offer service plans?”
• “Can you provide references or recent local installations similar to mine?”

Quick FAQ

How long does a new AC unit typically last?

Most central AC systems and heat pumps last 12–18 years with proper maintenance. Ductless mini-splits can sometimes last even longer. Harsh climates, poor maintenance, and incorrect sizing can shorten lifespan.

Will my homeowner’s insurance pay for a new AC?

Insurance usually does not cover normal wear and tear or age-related failure. It may cover damage from specific events (like a fire, storm, or falling tree) depending on your policy. It’s worth calling your insurer to confirm.

Do I need to replace my furnace at the same time?

Not always. If your furnace is relatively new and compatible with the new AC coil, you can often keep it. However, matching equipment (especially for high-efficiency systems) can improve performance and may be required to maintain warranties.

How far in advance should I schedule installation?

During peak summer heat, installers can book out 1–3 weeks or more. If your system is limping along, it’s wise to start getting quotes before it fails completely.

Next steps

Choosing a new AC unit comes down to age and condition of your current system, how much you’re spending on repairs and energy, and what level of comfort and efficiency you want. For a younger system with minor issues, repair is often fine. For an older, unreliable, or inefficient unit, replacement can provide better comfort and lower bills over the long term.

Gather a few basic details about your home and current system, then get 2–3 written quotes from licensed HVAC contractors. Comparing options—system type, efficiency, warranties, and total installed price—will give you a clear sense of what’s fair in your area.

If you’re not sure where to start, you can use a neutral local-pro directory like Home Services Scout to find and compare qualified AC installers near you. With the right information and a good installer, you can move forward confidently and enjoy a cooler, more comfortable home for years to come.