Electrician guide • Home Services Scout

Do You Need an Electrical Panel Upgrade?

Amps, loads, EV chargers, and how to know if your panel is undersized.

electricianinstall8 min read
Last updated Dec 6, 2025Fact-checked for US homeowners

Key takeaways

  • Most older panels are 60–100 amps; many modern homes need 150–200 amps. If you’re adding an EV charger, hot tub, or major appliances, your existing panel may not safely handle the load.
  • Warning signs matter more than panel age alone. Frequent breaker trips, warm or buzzing panels, flickering lights, or burning smells are all reasons to call an electrician quickly.
  • A full panel upgrade typically runs about $2,000–$5,000+, but can vary a lot. Costs depend on amperage (100 vs. 200 amps), wiring condition, service upgrades, and local permit requirements.
  • Sometimes a subpanel or minor upgrade is enough. If your main service is adequate but you’re out of breaker spaces, adding a subpanel or rearranging circuits can be cheaper than a full replacement.
  • Safety and code compliance come first. Panels with known safety issues or heavy corrosion are usually better to replace than repair, even if they still “work.”
  • Get multiple quotes for bigger projects. For anything over a few hundred dollars, comparing 2–3 licensed electricians is smart. You can use Home Services Scout to quickly see local options.
  • Upgrading can add comfort and flexibility. A properly sized panel makes it easier to add an EV charger, workshop tools, or future electrification (heat pumps, induction, etc.) without constant breaker trips.

Typical price range

All numbers below are approximate US ballpark ranges for labor and materials. Actual costs can be lower or higher depending on your home, panel location, wiring condition, and local labor rates.

  • Minor panel repair (tightening, replacing a few breakers): $150–$500

    • Example: Replacing a couple of faulty breakers, tightening connections, labeling circuits.
  • Panel “tune-up” and safety check: $200–$600

    • Inspection, thermal check, cleaning out debris, re-labeling circuits, and small corrections.
  • New subpanel (feeding off existing main panel): $500–$1,500+

    • Common when you need more breaker spaces in a garage, basement, or addition.
  • 100-amp panel replacement (like-for-like, simple): $1,500–$3,000

    • Swapping an old or unsafe panel for a new one, minimal wiring changes, straightforward access.
  • Upgrade to 200-amp service and panel: $2,000–$5,000+

    • Includes new panel, larger service entrance wires, meter upgrades, permits, and coordination with the utility.
  • Complex upgrade with rewiring or relocation: $4,000–$8,000+

    • Panel moved to a new location, significant wiring corrections, long cable runs, or structural work.

What pushes costs lower

  • Short, simple runs: Panel is close to the meter and service entry, with easy access.
  • No relocation: Keeping the panel in the same spot avoids drywall, framing, and extra labor.
  • Modern wiring already in place: Copper wiring, grounded circuits, and no major code violations.
  • Plenty of capacity already: You just need more breaker spaces (subpanel) rather than more amps.

What pushes costs higher

  • Panel relocation or tight access: Moving a panel, working in cramped closets, or finished walls that need cutting and patching.
  • Old or unsafe wiring: Aluminum branch wiring, no grounding, or many double-tapped breakers needing correction.
  • Upgrading service from the utility: New meter base, larger service drop or lateral, trenching, or mast work.
  • Permits and inspections: Required in most areas for panel work; fees and extra visits add to cost.
  • Adding big new loads: EV chargers, hot tubs, or large electric ranges may require larger service and extra circuits.

Repair vs. replacement: how to decide

You don’t always need a full panel upgrade. Sometimes a targeted repair or small addition is enough; other times, replacement is the safer and more cost-effective choice.

When repair or small upgrades make sense

Consider repair or smaller projects if:

  • The panel is relatively modern (under ~25–30 years) and from a reputable manufacturer.
  • Issues are isolated: One or two breakers trip under obvious heavy loads, or a single loose connection.
  • You just need more spaces: Your panel is otherwise in good shape but completely full.
  • Repair cost is under ~30–40% of a full replacement.

Examples of repair-level work:

  • Replacing a few bad breakers.
  • Correcting double-tapped breakers (two wires under one screw).
  • Adding a subpanel to gain extra breaker slots.
  • Tightening connections and cleaning corrosion on neutral/ground bars (if minor).

When full replacement or service upgrade is smarter

Replacement is usually the better path if:

  • The panel is 30–40+ years old and hasn’t been updated.
  • You see signs of overheating or damage: Burn marks, melted plastic, rust, or a warm panel cover.
  • The brand or model has known safety issues (an electrician can identify these).
  • You’re frequently tripping breakers even with normal use, not just during rare heavy loads.
  • You’re planning big electrical additions: EV charger, hot tub, electric range, heat pump, or large workshop tools.
  • Repair quotes approach 50–70% of a full upgrade.

A simple example

  • Your electrician quotes $900 to:
    • Replace several questionable breakers
    • Correct multiple double-taps
    • Add a small subpanel for a new EV charger
  • A full 200-amp panel and service upgrade is quoted at $3,000.

If your panel is only 15 years old and in good shape, $900 repair/expansion may be reasonable.
If your panel is 35+ years old with rust and frequent trips, putting $900 into it might not be wise—upgrading to the $3,000 new panel could be safer and more future-proof.


Efficiency and long-term costs

Electrical panels themselves don’t “use” much power, but they affect how safely and efficiently your home uses electricity.

How a modern panel can save money indirectly

  • Fewer nuisance trips and outages: A properly sized, well-laid-out panel reduces downtime and emergency calls.
  • Safer connections mean less risk of damage: Loose or overheated connections can damage appliances or wiring.
  • Supports efficient equipment: A panel with enough capacity lets you:
    • Install an EV charger at an efficient charging speed.
    • Add a heat pump or high-efficiency electric water heater.
    • Switch to induction cooking or other modern electric appliances.

Upfront vs. long-term trade-offs

  • Staying small (e.g., 100 amps) might be cheaper now, but could limit future projects and require another upgrade later.
  • Going to 200 amps now often costs a bit more upfront but:
    • Avoids repeat permit and electrician fees.
    • Makes future additions (EV, hot tub, workshop) much simpler.
  • Quality components and neat workmanship can reduce future troubleshooting time and costs.

If you’re planning to stay in your home for 5–10+ years, spending a bit more now for adequate capacity and a clean layout often pays off in fewer headaches and more flexibility.


What to expect from a visit or project

Before the pro arrives

  • Gather information:
    • Note any symptoms: flickering lights, tripped breakers, specific outlets that fail.
    • List recent or planned additions: EV charger, hot tub, new HVAC, etc.
  • Clear access:
    • Make sure there’s at least 3 feet of clear space in front of the panel.
    • Move storage, shelving, or appliances out of the way.
  • Ask about fees:
    • Confirm trip/diagnostic fees and whether they’re applied to the work if you proceed.

Typical inspection or repair visit (1–3 hours)

  • Initial discussion (10–20 minutes):
    • Explain your concerns and future plans.
    • The electrician asks about breaker trips, loads, and any past work.
  • Panel inspection (20–40 minutes):
    • Remove the panel cover (with power on or off depending on what they’re checking).
    • Look for loose wires, corrosion, overheating, and code issues.
    • Check breaker sizes vs. wire sizes and look for double-taps.
  • Testing and diagnosis (20–60 minutes):
    • Use testers or meters to check voltage, connections, and sometimes load.
    • Possibly turn circuits on/off to see how the panel behaves.
  • Discuss findings and options (10–30 minutes):
    • Explain whether repair, subpanel, or full upgrade is recommended.
    • Provide a written estimate for any larger work.
  • Minor repairs (30–90 minutes, if approved):
    • Replace breakers, tighten connections, fix labeling.
    • Clean debris or minor corrosion.
    • Restore power and test circuits.

Typical panel replacement or upgrade project

Duration: Often 1 day for straightforward jobs; 2+ days if complex or involving rewiring/relocation.

Planning and permits (before install day)

  • Site visit and estimate:
    • Measure existing service, panel location, and loads.
    • Discuss desired amperage (100 vs. 150 vs. 200 amps).
  • Permits and utility coordination:
    • Electrician usually pulls the electrical permit.
    • They coordinate with the utility for power shutoff and reconnection.

Install day

  • Power shutoff (scheduled window):
    • Utility or electrician shuts off power to the house.
  • Remove old panel (1–2 hours):
    • Label circuits carefully.
    • Disconnect and remove the old panel.
  • Install new panel and service components (2–4+ hours):
    • Mount new panel and, if needed, new meter base or service mast.
    • Connect service entrance wires and branch circuits.
    • Install new breakers and organize circuits cleanly.
  • Grounding and bonding (30–90 minutes):
    • Verify or install proper grounding electrodes and bonding jumpers.
  • Inspection and power restoration (timing varies):
    • Local inspector may visit the same day or next day.
    • Utility restores power after passing inspection.

After the upgrade

  • Testing and walkthrough (20–40 minutes):
    • Electrician checks circuits and major appliances.
    • Shows you the new panel, labels, and any special breakers (like AFCI/GFCI).
  • Cleanup and documentation:
    • Provide permit/inspection documentation and warranty info.
    • You may receive a panel schedule or load calculation summary.

DIY vs. hire a pro

Reasonable DIY tasks (with caution)

You should never open a live panel or work on service conductors yourself. That said, some related tasks can be DIY-friendly:

  • Basic observation and documentation:
    • Take clear photos of the panel exterior and labels (with the cover closed).
    • Note which breakers trip and what was running at the time.
  • Labeling circuits (without opening the panel):
    • Flip breakers one at a time to see what they control, then update the panel directory.
  • Load awareness:
    • Avoid running multiple big loads on the same circuit (space heater + hair dryer, etc.).

If you’re ever unsure, stop and call a pro. Even with the main breaker off, dangerous parts of the panel can still be energized.

Tasks for licensed electricians only

Leave these to licensed pros for safety, code, and insurance reasons:

  • Opening the panel and working on internal wiring
  • Replacing breakers or the panel itself
  • Upgrading service amperage (e.g., 100 to 200 amps)
  • Running new circuits for EV chargers, ranges, dryers, or HVAC
  • Correcting aluminum wiring or major code violations
  • Any work that requires permits or utility coordination

Improper panel work can cause fire, shock, or damage to your home’s electrical system and may affect insurance coverage. A licensed electrician knows local code, permit requirements, and safe work practices.


Questions to ask potential pros

  • Are you a licensed electrician, and are you insured for residential panel work?
  • Do you see any immediate safety hazards in my current panel? If so, what are the priorities?
  • What panel size (amperage) do you recommend for my home and why?
  • Can you walk me through the load calculation you’re using to size the panel?
  • Will this project require permits and inspections, and do you handle that process?
  • Does this quote include any service upgrade from the utility side (meter base, mast, trenching)?
  • If surprises come up (bad wiring, hidden damage), how do you handle additional costs?
  • What brand and type of panel and breakers will you install, and are parts readily available?
  • How long will my power be off, and what should I do to prepare (fridge, electronics, etc.)?
  • Is cleanup, patching around the panel, and labeling all circuits included in the price?
  • What warranties do you offer on labor and materials?
  • Can you provide a written estimate and a final panel schedule when the job is done?

Quick FAQ

How long does an electrical panel last?

A modern panel can often last 30–40 years or more, but environment, load, and workmanship matter. Rust, overheating, or repeated DIY changes can shorten its safe lifespan.

Do I need a panel upgrade for an EV charger?

Not always. Some homes can support an EV charger with the existing panel, especially if you use a lower charging rate. An electrician can do a load calculation to see whether you need a full upgrade, a subpanel, or just a new circuit.

Will my homeowners insurance cover a panel upgrade?

Insurance typically doesn’t pay for planned upgrades or normal aging. It may cover repairs after a covered event (like a fire or lightning), but not bringing an older system up to modern standards by choice. Check with your insurer for your specific policy.

Does a bigger panel lower my electric bill?

A larger panel doesn’t directly reduce your usage, but it can support more efficient electric equipment and reduce the risk of damage or outages. Any real energy savings come from the appliances and systems you connect to it.


Wrap-up and next steps

Deciding whether you need an electrical panel upgrade comes down to age, condition, and how you use your home:

  • If your panel is older, frequently tripping, or visibly damaged, talk to an electrician soon.
  • If you’re adding big new loads like an EV charger, hot tub, or electric HVAC, a load calculation and panel check are smart before you spend on new equipment.
  • If your panel is modern and in good shape, a small repair or subpanel might be all you need.

For any project over a few hundred dollars, it’s wise to get 2–3 quotes from licensed electricians so you can compare scope, pricing, and recommendations. A neutral directory like Home Services Scout can help you quickly find and compare local pros without pressure.

With the right information and a qualified electrician, you can choose a panel solution that’s safe today, ready for future upgrades, and respectful of your budget.

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