Best Places to Put Security Cameras Around Your Home

Key takeaways

• Start with entrances and high-traffic areas. Most homes get the best coverage by placing cameras at front and back doors, first-floor windows, and main interior hallways.
• Balance coverage with privacy. Outdoor cameras are usually fine, but indoor cameras should avoid bedrooms and bathrooms, and you should be mindful of neighbors’ yards and windows.
• Expect to spend about $75–$500 per camera installed. Simple DIY wireless cameras can be under $100 each, while professionally installed wired systems with recording can run $200–$500+ per camera.
• Wired vs. wireless is a trade-off. Wired cameras are more reliable and harder to tamper with but cost more to install. Wireless cameras are easier and cheaper to place but depend on Wi‑Fi and batteries or nearby outlets.
• Plan for storage and monitoring costs. Cloud storage and professional monitoring often add $5–$40 per month, depending on how many cameras and features you choose.
• Permits and HOA rules may apply. Some areas and homeowners’ associations have rules about camera placement and wiring; pros can help you stay compliant.
• A good layout matters more than fancy hardware. Thoughtful placement and angles often improve security more than simply buying more expensive cameras.

Typical price range

All numbers below are approximate US ballpark ranges. Actual costs vary by region, house layout, and the type of system you choose.

• Basic DIY wireless camera (single unit): $50–$200
  Battery or plug‑in, Wi‑Fi connected, often with basic cloud storage options.

• Professional installation – single wireless camera: $75–$250 per camera
  Includes mounting, setup, and app configuration; often lower if part of a larger system.

• Professional installation – wired camera system: $200–$500+ per camera
  Includes running cable, drilling, mounting, and connecting to a recorder or network video recorder (NVR).

• 4–6 camera wired system, installed: $800–$3,000+ total
  Wide range depending on camera quality, recorder, and difficulty of running wires.

• Cloud storage / monitoring: $5–$40 per month
  Depends on number of cameras, video quality, and whether you add professional monitoring.

• Minor relocation or angle adjustment by a pro: $75–$200
  For moving a camera a short distance, re-aiming, or cleaning up wiring.

What pushes costs lower

• Easy access and simple layout. Single-story homes, unfinished basements, and attic access make wiring cheaper.
• Sticking with wireless. Battery or plug‑in Wi‑Fi cameras avoid the cost of running cables.
• Fewer, better-placed cameras. A smart layout with 3–4 cameras can cover many small homes.
• Self-installation. Comfortable DIYers can save significantly on labor for wireless systems.

What pushes costs higher

• Two-story or complex rooflines. More time and effort to run wires and mount cameras safely.
• Finished walls and ceilings. Fishing wires through finished spaces adds labor and sometimes patching.
• High-resolution or specialty cameras. 4K, wide-angle, low-light, or pan-tilt-zoom models cost more.
• Integrated systems. Connecting cameras to existing alarms, smart locks, or whole-home automation adds complexity.
• Long cable runs or trenching. Detached garages, sheds, or gates may require outdoor-rated conduit and digging.

Repair vs. replacement: when to upgrade your setup

With security cameras, the “repair vs. replace” decision is often about repositioning or upgrading rather than fixing a single broken unit.

When repair or adjustment makes sense

• Picture is poor but camera is newer. Cleaning the lens, updating firmware, or adjusting settings can fix issues with a camera that’s only a few years old.
• Bad angle or blind spots. Re-aiming or relocating a camera a few feet can dramatically improve coverage.
• Wi‑Fi issues. Adding a Wi‑Fi extender or moving the router can solve connection problems for wireless cameras.
• Loose wiring or mounts. Tightening brackets, replacing a damaged cable, or resealing outdoor connections is usually cheaper than replacing the camera.

Example:
If a 2‑year‑old wired camera has a loose connection, a pro might charge $100–$200 to diagnose and repair it. Replacing that camera with a similar wired unit might run $200–$350 installed. In this case, repair or simple replacement both make sense.

When replacement or rethinking the layout is smarter

• Older than 5–7 years. Camera technology improves quickly. If your system is that old, replacing failing cameras often gives you much better image quality and features.
• Multiple cameras failing. If two or more cameras or the recorder are unreliable, a partial or full system upgrade may be more cost-effective.
• Outdated resolution (analog or low-res). If you can’t clearly identify faces or license plates, upgrading may be worth it for real security value.
• Changing needs. Adding a new entrance, more outdoor living space, or a detached building may call for a redesigned layout.

Example:
You have a 6‑camera wired system installed 8 years ago. Two cameras are dead, and the recorder is glitchy.

• Repairing/replacing individual pieces might cost $500–$800.
• A modern 6‑camera system with better resolution and storage might be $1,500–$2,500 installed.

If you plan to stay in the home for several years, the full upgrade often makes more sense than chasing repairs on an aging system.

Efficiency and long-term costs

Security cameras don’t use a lot of power individually, but long-term operating costs and subscriptions add up.

Power and data use

• Wired (PoE) cameras:

  • Use low-voltage power over Ethernet; energy use is modest.
  • Once installed, operating cost is mostly just a slight bump on your electric bill.

• Wireless plug‑in cameras:

  • Similar energy use to a small electronic device (like a modem).
  • Convenient, but you’ll need nearby outlets and may want surge protection.

• Battery-powered cameras:

  • No ongoing electricity cost at the outlet, but you’ll spend time (and possibly money) on battery replacements or charging.
  • In very active areas, batteries drain faster; some homeowners add solar panels to cut down on maintenance.

Storage and monitoring costs

• Cloud storage plans:

  • Typically $5–$20 per month for a few cameras.
  • Higher tiers for more cameras, longer video history, or higher resolution.

• Local storage (NVR or microSD cards):

  • Higher upfront cost, lower ongoing fees.
  • Good if you want to avoid monthly subscriptions, but you’re responsible for maintaining the hardware.

• Professional monitoring:

  • Some systems offer 24/7 monitoring for $15–$40 per month.
  • Adds peace of mind but may not be necessary for everyone; consider your risk level and budget.

When paying more upfront can save later

• Higher-quality cameras. Spending more on durable, weather-rated cameras with good night vision can reduce replacements and false alerts.
• Well-planned wired system. A properly installed wired system may cost more initially but can last many years with minimal maintenance.
• Good network setup. Investing in a solid router or mesh Wi‑Fi can prevent connection issues and reduce troubleshooting over time.

What to expect from a visit or project

Before the pro arrives

• Clarify your goals. Decide what you want to cover: doors, driveway, yard, interior entry points, etc.
• List existing equipment. Note any current cameras, alarm systems, or smart-home devices you want to integrate.
• Check rules. If you’re in an HOA or rental, review any restrictions on exterior modifications or drilling.

Typical consultation or assessment visit (30–90 minutes)

A pro will usually:

• Walk the property. Look at doors, windows, driveway, yard, and any outbuildings.
• Discuss privacy and angles. Suggest camera positions that cover your property without pointing into neighbors’ windows.
• Evaluate wiring options. Check attic, crawlspace, or basement access for running cables (for wired systems).
• Review Wi‑Fi strength. Test signal near planned camera locations for wireless setups.
• Propose a layout. Recommend number of cameras, types (wired/wireless), and recording options.
• Provide an estimate. Often includes equipment, labor, and any optional monitoring or storage plans.

Typical installation – wireless system (1–3 hours for 2–4 cameras)

• Mounting cameras. Attach brackets to siding, brick, or eaves; seal any exterior holes.
• Power setup. Plug into outlets or insert/charge batteries.
• Connect to Wi‑Fi and apps. Pair cameras with your network and smartphone; set up alerts and user accounts.
• Angle and motion tuning. Adjust fields of view and motion zones to reduce false alerts from traffic or trees.
• Basic training. Show you how to view footage, change settings, and share access with family members.

Typical installation – wired system (1–2 days for 4–8 cameras)

• Run cables. Pull Ethernet or coax cables through attic, crawlspace, or walls to each camera location.
• Mount cameras securely. Use appropriate anchors and weatherproof fittings; seal around penetrations.
• Install recorder and network gear. Place NVR or DVR in a secure, ventilated spot; connect to router.
• Test each camera. Verify image quality, night vision, and recording for every channel.
• Set up remote access. Configure apps, user accounts, and any monitoring services.
• Clean up. Patch small holes if needed, tidy cables, and walk you through the system.

DIY vs. hire a pro

Reasonable DIY tasks for many homeowners

• Installing simple wireless cameras.

  • Mounting battery or plug‑in cameras at reachable heights.
  • Connecting to Wi‑Fi and setting up the app.
  • Adjusting angles and motion zones over time.

• Basic maintenance.

  • Cleaning lenses and housings.
  • Replacing batteries or power adapters.
  • Tightening loose mounts and checking for corrosion.

• Minor repositioning.

  • Moving a camera a few feet if it’s still within Wi‑Fi and power range.

Tasks best left to licensed or experienced pros

• Running new low-voltage wiring.

  • Fishing cables through walls, attics, and crawlspaces can damage existing wiring or insulation if done incorrectly.
  • Local codes may apply to how and where cables are run and protected.

• Working near electrical panels or high-voltage wiring.

  • Even though cameras are low-voltage, they often share pathways with electrical lines; mistakes can be dangerous.

• Exterior drilling at height.

  • Mounting cameras on second stories, over garages, or near rooflines involves ladder safety and proper sealing to prevent leaks.

• Integrating with alarms or access control.

  • Tying cameras into a monitored alarm system or smart locks should be done by pros familiar with security and code requirements.

If you’re unsure, consider having a pro design the layout and handle the wiring, then you manage basic adjustments and app settings yourself. You can use a neutral directory like Home Services Scout to compare local security and low-voltage pros.

Questions to ask potential pros

• “How many cameras do I realistically need for my home, and why?”
• “Do you recommend wired, wireless, or a mix for my layout and budget?”
• “Where will you place cameras to avoid pointing directly into neighbors’ windows or private areas?”
• “What’s included in your estimate—equipment, labor, setup, and any patching or cleanup?”
• “Do I need any permits or HOA approvals for this installation, and will you help with that?”
• “What kind of storage do you recommend (cloud vs. local), and what are the ongoing costs?”
• “How do you secure the system against hacking or unauthorized access?”
• “What warranties do you provide on both the equipment and your installation work?”
• “If something fails, who do I call, and what are your typical service call fees?”
• “Can this system expand later if I want to add more cameras or integrate with other smart devices?”
• “How long will installation take, and will I lose internet or power at any point?”
• “Do you provide a walkthrough or training so I know how to use the system and adjust settings?”

Quick FAQ

Can I point cameras at the street or sidewalk?

In most areas, it’s generally acceptable to capture public spaces like streets and sidewalks, as long as you’re not intentionally focusing on neighbors’ private spaces. When in doubt, aim cameras primarily at your own property and entry points.

Are indoor cameras a good idea?

Indoor cameras can be useful for entryways, main living areas, or checking on pets, but many people avoid placing them in bedrooms and bathrooms for privacy. If you use indoor cameras, make sure all household members understand when they’re on and who has access.

How long do security cameras usually last?

Most modern cameras last 5–10 years, depending on weather exposure, build quality, and power conditions. Outdoor cameras in harsh climates may need replacement sooner than indoor units.

Will security cameras lower my insurance premium?

Some insurers offer small discounts for monitored security systems, especially when combined with alarms. Cameras alone may not dramatically change your rate, but they can help document incidents and support claims.

Wrap-up and next steps

The best places to put security cameras are usually front and back doors, key windows, driveways, and main interior paths, with careful attention to privacy and local rules. From there, your main decisions are wired vs. wireless, how many cameras you truly need, and how much you’re comfortable spending on installation and ongoing storage or monitoring.

If you’re adding just a couple of wireless cameras, DIY can be very reasonable. For larger or wired systems, or if you’re unsure about placement and code issues, it’s wise to get 2–3 quotes from qualified pros. A neutral local directory like Home Services Scout can help you quickly compare licensed security and low-voltage installers in your area.

With a thoughtful plan and the right help, you can improve your home’s security without overcomplicating your life—or your budget.