Termite Treatment Options and What They Cost

Key takeaways

• Most termite treatments run a few hundred to a few thousand dollars. Small spot treatments might be $150–$400, while whole-house tenting can run $1,500–$4,000+, depending on home size and severity.
• Tenting is usually best for widespread or hidden infestations. Whole-structure fumigation reaches termites you can’t see, but it’s more disruptive and expensive than localized spot treatments.
• Spot treatments can work for limited, accessible damage. If the infestation is confined to a small area and caught early, localized chemical or heat treatments can be effective and less costly.
• Warranties matter almost as much as the treatment itself. Many companies offer 1–5 year warranties with annual inspections; longer coverage or retreatment guarantees often justify a slightly higher upfront price.
• Repairs can cost as much as treatment—or more. Treating termites doesn’t fix structural damage. Replacing damaged wood can add hundreds to many thousands on top of treatment costs.
• Comparing at least 2–3 quotes is smart. Treatment methods, warranties, and follow-up plans vary a lot; the cheapest option isn’t always the best long-term value.
• Professional help is strongly recommended. Termites are difficult to fully eliminate with DIY methods, and missed colonies can lead to far more expensive repairs later.

Typical price range

All numbers below are approximate US ballpark ranges. Actual costs depend on your home’s size, construction, location, severity of infestation, and the company you hire.

Common termite treatment scenarios

• Inspection only:

  • $0–$200
  • Many pest control companies offer free or low-cost inspections, especially if you’re considering treatment or are in a real estate transaction.

• Small spot treatment (limited area):

  • $150–$400 per area
  • For a clearly defined, accessible spot—like a section of baseboard or a small area of a crawlspace.

• Moderate localized treatment (multiple areas):

  • $400–$1,000
  • For several problem spots, often including drilling and injecting termiticide in walls, slabs, or around the foundation.

• Liquid perimeter treatment (whole home barrier):

  • $800–$2,500+
  • Creates a chemical barrier around the home; cost depends heavily on linear footage and how much drilling/trenching is needed.

• Termite bait system installation:

  • $800–$3,000+ initial setup, plus $200–$500 per year for monitoring
  • Stations are placed around the home and monitored/serviced regularly.

• Whole-house tent fumigation (common for drywood termites):

  • $1,500–$4,000+
  • Based largely on cubic footage of the structure. Larger or multi-story homes cost more.

• Annual protection plan / warranty renewal:

  • $150–$400+ per year
  • Often includes an annual inspection and retreatment if termites return within the coverage terms.

• Structural repairs from termite damage:

  • Minor cosmetic repairs: $300–$1,000
  • Moderate framing/floor repairs: $1,000–$5,000
  • Major structural repairs: $5,000–$15,000+
  • Costs vary widely depending on whether walls, floors, or structural beams are affected.

What pushes costs lower

• Small, localized infestation that’s easy to access.
• Slab-on-grade homes with simple foundations (less drilling/trenching).
• Early detection before termites spread extensively.
• Single-story homes with straightforward rooflines (for tenting).
• No or minimal existing damage that needs repair.

What pushes costs higher

• Large or multi-story homes with complex layouts.
• Extensive or long-term infestations requiring multiple methods.
• Difficult access areas (tight crawlspaces, finished basements, complex roofs).
• Significant structural damage needing carpentry or engineering work.
• Premium warranties with long coverage periods and retreatment guarantees.
• Follow-up monitoring contracts for bait systems or ongoing protection.

Tenting vs. spot treatments: which makes sense?

Think of this as a “repair vs. replace” style decision: spot/local treatments are like repairs, while tenting or full-perimeter systems are closer to a full reset.

When spot treatments are reasonable

Spot or localized treatments can be a good fit when:

• Infestation is limited and clearly defined.
• You have good access to the affected area (exposed framing, visible galleries).
• The structure is otherwise sound, with no major hidden damage suspected.
• Budget is tight and you need to address the most urgent issues first.
• You’re dealing with subterranean termites in a few known entry points.

Example:
A pro finds a small drywood termite colony in one window frame. A localized treatment might cost $250–$500, and the window trim repair another $200–$400. Tenting the entire home could be $2,000+, so spot treatment with careful follow-up inspections might be the more practical choice.

When whole-house tenting is smarter

Tenting (fumigation) is often recommended when:

• Multiple areas of drywood termites are found throughout the home.
• There’s evidence in inaccessible areas (attic, wall voids, roof framing).
• You’re planning to sell the home, and a clean inspection report matters.
• Prior spot treatments haven’t fully solved the problem.
• You want a “reset” approach that treats the entire structure at once.

Rule of thumb:
If you’re seeing drywood termite activity in 3+ separate locations, or if a pro can’t confidently rule out hidden colonies, tenting is usually more cost-effective long term—even if it’s a bigger upfront hit.

Comparing costs vs. risk

• If spot treatments across the home start adding up to 50–70% of the cost of tenting, and you still have uncertainty about hidden colonies, it’s often more economical to tent once.
• For subterranean termites, tenting is less common; soil treatments and bait systems are usually the “whole-house” equivalent, and may be smarter than chasing individual colonies.

Efficiency and long-term costs

Termites don’t use energy like an appliance, but your long-term costs depend heavily on how you choose to protect your home.

Upfront vs. ongoing protection

• One-time treatments only:

  • Lower immediate cost, but higher risk of reinfestation if there’s no follow-up.
  • You may pay again later for new inspections and treatments.

• Annual protection plans:

  • Higher long-term spend, but spread out over time.
  • Often include annual inspections, monitoring, and retreatment if termites return—potentially saving you from major repair bills.

When paying more upfront can save money

• Longer warranties: A treatment with a 3–5 year warranty that includes free retreatment may cost $200–$500 more than a basic one-year option but can easily pay for itself if termites return.
• Bait systems with monitoring: More expensive initially than a one-time liquid treatment, but can provide ongoing detection and control, especially in high-risk areas.
• Thorough perimeter treatments: A more complete barrier around the home may cost more than a minimal spot job, but reduces the chance of new colonies sneaking in.

Hidden cost: structural damage

Skipping or delaying treatment can lead to:

• Sagging floors or ceilings
• Sticking doors and windows
• Compromised beams or joists

These repairs can far exceed the cost of treatment. Spending $1,500–$3,000 on solid treatment and monitoring can be cheaper than a $10,000+ structural repair down the road.

What to expect from a visit or project

Before the pro arrives

• Gather information:

  • Note where you’ve seen mud tubes, discarded wings, frass (pellet-like droppings), or damaged wood.
  • Take a few photos if you can.

• Clear access:

  • Move furniture or storage away from baseboards, foundation walls, and suspected areas.
  • Ensure access to crawlspaces, attic hatches, and utility rooms.

• Ask about prep instructions:

  • For standard inspections or spot treatments, prep is usually minimal.
  • For tenting, you’ll get a detailed prep list (food storage, plants, pets, medications).

Typical inspection visit (60–120 minutes)

• Initial conversation (10–15 minutes):

  • You explain what you’ve seen and for how long.
  • The pro asks about previous treatments and the home’s history.

• Interior inspection (20–40 minutes):

  • Checking baseboards, window sills, door frames, cabinets, and closets.
  • Tapping or probing wood, looking for hollow spots or frass.
  • Inspecting attic or crawlspace if accessible.

• Exterior inspection (20–40 minutes):

  • Examining the foundation, siding, deck, porch, and utility penetrations.
  • Looking for mud tubes, wood-to-soil contact, and moisture issues.

• Findings and recommendations (15–30 minutes):

  • Explaining what they found (or didn’t find).
  • Discussing treatment options (spot vs. perimeter vs. tenting).
  • Providing a written estimate and explaining the warranty.

Typical spot or localized treatment (1–3 hours)

• Setup and protection:

  • Moving or covering nearby items.
  • Setting up drills, injectors, or sprayers as needed.

• Treatment application:

  • Drilling small holes in wood, walls, or slabs to inject termiticide.
  • Applying foam or liquid into galleries and voids.
  • Possibly replacing small sections of damaged trim if part of the scope.

• Cleanup and instructions:

  • Patching drill holes (often with wood putty or concrete patch).
  • Wiping surfaces and removing debris.
  • Explaining what to watch for and any re-entry or ventilation guidance.

Typical whole-house tent fumigation (2–3 days total)

• Pre-fumigation prep (before day 1):

  • Bagging or removing food, pet food, and certain medications.
  • Arranging for pets and plants to stay elsewhere.
  • Unlocking all rooms and cabinets as directed.

• Day 1 – Tenting and gas introduction:

  • Crew arrives and covers the home with tarps (several hours).
  • Fumigant gas is introduced and the home is sealed for a set period.

• Day 2–3 – Aeration and clearance:

  • Tent is removed, and the home is ventilated.
  • The pro tests air levels and clears the home for re-entry.
  • You return, unbag food, and resume normal living.

• Post-fumigation:

  • You may still see dead termites or old damage; fumigation kills live termites but doesn’t repair wood.
  • Follow-up inspections and warranty details are reviewed.

DIY vs. hire a pro

Reasonable DIY tasks

• Basic monitoring and prevention:

  • Inspect visible wood a few times a year (especially in crawlspaces, basements, and around decks).
  • Reduce wood-to-soil contact (keep siding and trim off the soil, use concrete or metal barriers where possible).
  • Fix moisture issues: repair leaks, improve drainage, use dehumidifiers in damp areas.

• Minor landscaping adjustments:

  • Keep mulch and plants a few inches away from the foundation.
  • Store firewood and lumber off the ground and away from the house.

• Over-the-counter termite baits or sprays (with caution):

  • Can be used as a temporary measure around clearly visible activity.
  • Should not replace a professional inspection for a suspected infestation.

Tasks to leave to licensed pros

• Full termite inspections and identification:

  • Pros can distinguish between termites, carpenter ants, and other wood pests, and between drywood and subterranean termites, which require different approaches.

• Structural treatments:

  • Drilling slabs, foundations, or structural members and applying restricted-use termiticides requires training, proper equipment, and often licensing.
  • Misapplied chemicals can be ineffective or unsafe.

• Whole-house tent fumigation:

  • Involves toxic fumigants, strict safety protocols, and specialized licensing.
  • Never attempt any kind of DIY fumigation.

• Major structural repairs:

  • Replacing load-bearing beams, joists, or wall sections should be done by qualified contractors; mistakes can affect safety and code compliance.

Because termites can cause hidden structural damage, and because treatment chemicals and fumigation gases can be hazardous if misused, professional help is strongly recommended for anything beyond basic prevention.

Questions to ask potential pros

• “What type of termites do I have, and how did you determine that?”
• “What treatment options do you recommend, and why this method over others?”
• “Is tenting necessary, or could a localized or perimeter treatment be effective here?”
• “What is the total cost, and what exactly is included in that price?” (inspection, treatment, follow-up visits, damage repairs, etc.)
• “How long is your warranty, and what does it cover?” (retreatment only, damage repair, transferable to a new owner?)
• “Are there any annual fees for monitoring or warranty renewal?”
• “How disruptive will the treatment be, and how long will we need to be out of the house (if at all)?”
• “What preparation do we need to do before you arrive?” (food, pets, plants, access)
• “What products will you use, and are they safe for kids and pets once dry or ventilated?”
• “How many termite jobs like this do you handle in a typical year?”
• “Will you provide a written inspection report and treatment diagram?”
• “If termites come back, what happens—do you retreat at no cost, or is there a fee?”

Quick FAQ

How long does a termite treatment last?

It depends on the method and product. Liquid soil treatments can remain effective for 5–10 years, while bait systems rely on ongoing monitoring and maintenance. Fumigation kills existing drywood termites but does not prevent new infestations, so follow-up inspections and prevention are still important.

Does homeowners insurance cover termite damage?

In most cases, no. Standard homeowners insurance typically treats termite damage as a preventable maintenance issue, not a sudden, covered event. It’s worth confirming with your insurer, but plan as if you’ll be paying for treatment and repairs out of pocket.

Are termites dangerous to people?

Termites don’t bite or spread disease to humans, but they can seriously damage the structure of a home over time. The main risk is to your home’s safety and value, not your health—though fumigation gases and chemicals must be handled carefully by licensed professionals.

How often should I have my home inspected for termites?

In most areas, a professional inspection every 1–3 years is a good idea, and annually if you’re in a high-risk region or have a history of termite issues. Many homeowners combine this with an annual pest control or protection plan.

Next steps

If you suspect termites—or just haven’t had an inspection in a while—the most important step is to get a professional inspection and a clear written report. From there:

• Compare 2–3 quotes that spell out:

  • Treatment method (spot, perimeter, bait, tenting)
  • Total cost and any annual fees
  • Warranty length and what’s covered

• Match the solution to your situation and budget:

  • Localized, early infestation: Spot treatment plus close follow-up may be enough.
  • Widespread or uncertain infestation: Tenting or a comprehensive perimeter/bait system is often worth the higher upfront cost.
  • Evidence of damage: Factor in repair costs alongside treatment when deciding.

If you’re not sure where to start, you can use a neutral directory like Home Services Scout to compare local termite pros, read reviews, and request estimates. With a few informed questions and clear quotes, you can choose a treatment plan that protects your home, respects your budget, and gives you peace of mind for years to come.