Window Replacement Cost Breakdown

Key takeaways

• Most full window replacements cost about $450–$1,200 per window installed. Simple vinyl windows in an average-size opening land on the lower end; larger, custom, or specialty windows land higher.
• Repairs can be very affordable compared to full replacement. Fixing broken glass, hardware, or weatherstripping often runs $150–$600 per window, depending on the issue and glass type.
• Age and drafts are big clues. Windows over 20–25 years old, with foggy glass, soft/rotting frames, or major drafts, are usually better candidates for replacement than repair.
• Frame and glass choices drive both cost and comfort. Vinyl is usually the best value; fiberglass and wood cost more but can offer better looks or durability. Double-pane, low‑E glass is today’s standard for energy efficiency.
• You usually need multiple windows to see real energy savings. Replacing just one or two windows won’t move your utility bill much; upgrading 8–15+ of your worst windows is where many homeowners start to notice a difference.
• Installation quality matters as much as the window. Poor installation can erase efficiency gains and cause leaks, so it’s worth paying for a reputable pro.
• Get multiple quotes and clear scopes. Window pricing varies widely; comparing 2–3 detailed bids helps you balance budget, efficiency, and aesthetics.

Typical price range

All numbers below are approximate US ballpark ranges for typical residential projects. Actual costs vary by region, window size, accessibility, and product quality.

Common window repair and replacement scenarios

• Minor repair (hardware, weatherstripping, small fixes):
  $75–$250 per window
  Think: replacing locks, latches, balances, or adding new weatherstripping to reduce drafts.

• Glass-only replacement (single pane):
  $150–$300 per window
  Removing and replacing a broken single pane in a small to medium window.

• Glass-only replacement (double-pane/insulated glass unit):
  $200–$500 per window
  Replacing a fogged or cracked insulated glass unit (IGU) while keeping the existing frame.

• Frame repair (minor rot, filling, repainting):
  $200–$600 per window
  Patching small areas of wood rot, repairing sills, and repainting.

• Basic full replacement – vinyl, double-hung or slider:
  $450–$800 per window installed
  Standard sizes, double-pane, low‑E glass, no major framing changes.

• Mid-range full replacement – better vinyl or fiberglass:
  $650–$1,000+ per window installed
  Higher efficiency glass packages, upgraded hardware, or larger sizes.

• Premium full replacement – wood or high-end fiberglass:
  $900–$1,500+ per window installed
  Often chosen for aesthetics, historic homes, or strict HOA requirements.

• Bay, bow, or large picture window replacement:
  $1,200–$4,000+ installed
  Large openings, custom support, and more glass drive costs up.

• Whole-house window replacement (10–20 average windows):
  $7,000–$20,000+ total
  Wide range depending on number of windows, quality level, and any framing work.

What makes window costs lower?

• Standard sizes and styles (double-hung, single-hung, sliders).
• Vinyl frames with basic but Energy Star–rated double-pane glass.
• No structural changes to openings (same size replacement).
• Single-story homes or easy ladder access.
• Simple interior/exterior trim that doesn’t need complex carpentry.

What makes window costs higher?

• Custom sizes, shapes, or colors that require special ordering.
• Wood or fiberglass frames and premium finishes.
• Triple-pane glass, laminated glass, or special coatings for noise or sun control.
• Rotten framing or water damage that needs repair before installing new windows.
• Second- or third-story access, tight spaces, or tricky removal.
• Historic details or strict HOA requirements that limit your options.

Repair vs. replacement

Choosing between repairing and replacing windows comes down to age, condition, comfort, and cost.

When repair usually makes sense

• Windows under 15–20 years old that are otherwise in good shape.
• Isolated issues like:
  • Broken latch or lock
  • Stuck sash or broken balance
  • Torn screens
  • Drafts that seem to come from gaps around the frame (often fixable with weatherstripping or caulk)
• One or two fogged double-pane units when the frames are solid and you’re happy with the look.

Rule of thumb: If the repair cost is less than 30–40% of a comparable replacement, and the window is not near the end of its life, repair is often reasonable.

When replacement is usually smarter

• Windows older than 20–25 years, especially original builder-grade units.
• Multiple problems at once, such as:
  • Fogged or cracked glass
  • Noticeable drafts even when closed
  • Sashes that won’t stay open
  • Peeling paint, soft or crumbly wood, or visible rot
• High energy bills and comfort issues near windows (cold spots, hot rooms, condensation).
• Lead paint concerns on old wood windows (common in homes built before 1978) – safer to have pros handle replacement.

Rule of thumb: If repairs add up to 50% or more of the cost of a new window, or you’d still be left with an older, inefficient unit, replacement is often the better long-term value.

Simple example

• You have a 20-year-old double-hung vinyl window that’s drafty and fogged.
• A new mid-range vinyl replacement window installed is quoted at about $700.
• Glass-only replacement is $300, plus $150 to re-caulk and adjust hardware — $450 total.

You’d spend about 65% of the replacement cost to repair a 20-year-old window that’s still not as efficient as a new unit. In this case, full replacement is likely the smarter move.

Efficiency and long-term costs

Windows affect comfort, energy bills, and even noise levels. The upfront cost is only part of the story.

Efficiency basics to know

• Double-pane vs. single-pane:
  Double-pane (insulated) glass is standard today and significantly more efficient than older single-pane windows.

• Low‑E coatings:
  Thin, invisible coatings that reflect heat. They help keep heat inside in winter and outside in summer, often at a modest cost increase.

• Gas fills (argon, krypton):
  Inert gas between panes improves insulation. Most modern double-pane units include argon by default.

• Energy ratings (U-factor, SHGC):

  • Lower U-factor = better insulation.
  • SHGC (solar heat gain coefficient) measures how much solar heat passes through; in hot climates, lower is often better.

When paying more can save over time

• Upgrading from old single-pane windows:
  Replacing a house full of leaky single-pane units with efficient double-pane windows can reduce heating and cooling costs. For many homes, that might mean tens of dollars per month in savings, especially in extreme climates.

• Targeting the worst offenders first:
  If a full-house replacement isn’t in the budget, focus on:

  • South- and west-facing windows that get strong sun.
  • Very drafty or rotted units you can feel cold or hot air around.
  • Rooms that are always too hot or too cold.

• Maintenance and lifespan:

  • Vinyl is low-maintenance and doesn’t need painting.
  • Fiberglass is very stable and durable, with good long-term performance.
  • Wood looks great but needs regular painting or sealing to avoid rot.

Spending a bit more on quality frames and glass can mean:

• Fewer condensation problems
• Better comfort near windows
• Less repainting and repair over the years

What to expect from a visit or project

Before the pro arrives

• Clarify your goals:
  Decide if you’re aiming to improve comfort, appearance, energy efficiency, or all three.
• Make a quick list of problem windows:
  Note which ones are:
  • Drafty
  • Hard to open or close
  • Fogged or cracked
• Clear access:
  Move furniture and window coverings where possible, and clear outdoor obstacles like shrubs or patio furniture near work areas.

Typical repair visit (1–3 hours, depending on scope)

• Initial walkthrough (10–20 minutes):

  • You show the pro the problem windows.
  • They inspect frames, glass, and hardware, and confirm what’s repairable.

• Estimate and approval (10–30 minutes):

  • For simple repairs, they may provide an on-the-spot estimate.
  • For glass replacement, they may need to measure and order glass, then schedule a return visit.

• Repair work (30–120+ minutes):

  • Hardware fixes: Replace latches, balances, or locks; adjust sashes.
  • Weatherstripping/caulking: Seal gaps around frames and sashes.
  • Glass replacement: Remove stops, swap out the broken or fogged pane/IGU, reinstall stops, and seal.

• Cleanup and testing (10–20 minutes):

  • Operate each repaired window with you.
  • Clean up broken glass and debris, haul away old materials if included.

Typical replacement project

Measurement and quoting visit (30–90 minutes)

• Detailed measurements:
  The pro measures each opening precisely (often multiple points per window).
• Product discussion:
  You’ll discuss:
  • Frame material (vinyl, fiberglass, wood)
  • Glass options (low‑E, grids, tint, sound control)
  • Interior and exterior colors and trim
• Written quote:
  You should receive a written estimate listing:
  • Number and sizes of windows
  • Product line and options
  • Labor, disposal, and any additional carpentry

Installation day(s)

• Arrival and prep (30–60 minutes):

  • Crew protects floors and furniture with drop cloths.
  • They may remove blinds, curtains, and screens.

• Removal of old windows (10–30 minutes per window):

  • Carefully remove sashes and frames.
  • Inspect the rough opening for damage or rot.

• Framing and prep (as needed, 10–60 minutes per window):

  • Repair minor rot or damage.
  • Add flashing or insulation around the opening.

• Installing new windows (20–60 minutes per window):

  • Set and level the new window.
  • Secure it to the framing.
  • Insulate around the frame (often with low-expansion foam or fiberglass).
  • Install exterior flashing and sealant.

• Interior and exterior finishing (varies):

  • Replace or install interior trim and casing.
  • Caulk and touch up paint where agreed.
  • Install or re-install screens.

• Final walkthrough and cleanup (30–60 minutes):

  • Show you how to operate and clean the new windows.
  • Review warranty information.
  • Clean up debris and haul away old windows if included.

Timeline:

• A small project (3–5 windows) can often be done in half a day to a day.
• A whole-house project (10–20 windows) often takes 1–3 days, depending on crew size and complexity.

DIY vs. hire a pro

Reasonable DIY tasks for a handy homeowner

If you’re comfortable with basic tools and ladders, you might tackle:

• Weatherstripping and caulking:

  • Adding or replacing weatherstripping around sashes.
  • Sealing small gaps and cracks around frames with exterior-grade caulk.

• Simple hardware replacements:

  • Swapping out broken latches or locks.
  • Replacing sash lifts or handles.

• Screen repair or replacement:

  • Re-screening torn mesh.
  • Installing new screen frames.

• Basic interior touch-ups:

  • Repainting interior trim.
  • Filling small nail holes or cosmetic dings.

Tasks best left to pros

For safety, code compliance, and to protect your home from water damage, it’s wise to hire a pro for:

• Full window replacements:
  Proper flashing, insulation, and sealing are critical to avoid leaks, rot, and lost efficiency.

• Structural or framing repairs:
  If there’s significant rot, sagging, or damage around the opening, a pro should evaluate and repair it.

• Enlarging or moving window openings:
  This can involve structural changes (headers, load-bearing walls) and often requires permits and inspections.

• Second- and third-story work:
  Working on ladders or scaffolding at height is risky without training and proper equipment.

• Lead paint or older homes:
  Homes built before 1978 may have lead-based paint. Disturbing it requires specific safety procedures that trained pros follow.

A good installer doesn’t just “fit a window”; they make sure it’s square, level, properly flashed, and sealed so it performs well for decades.

Questions to ask potential pros

• What types of windows and frame materials do you recommend for my home and why?
• Is this a full-frame replacement or an insert (pocket) installation, and what are the pros and cons of each for my situation?
• What is included in your price? (Labor, materials, disposal of old windows, interior/exterior trim, painting, permits, etc.)
• Can you break down the cost per window and list any potential additional charges?
• What energy performance ratings will my new windows have (U-factor, low‑E, gas fills), and are they Energy Star–rated?
• How will you handle existing issues like rot, water damage, or out-of-square openings if you find them?
• Do I need any permits for this work, and do you handle the permitting process?
• Who will be doing the installation — your own crew or subcontractors — and how experienced are they?
• What warranties are included on both the windows and the installation labor?
• How long will the project take from order to completion, and what happens if there are delays?
• How will you protect my home and landscaping during the project, and what does cleanup include?
• Can you provide recent references or photos of similar projects you’ve completed?

Quick FAQ

How long do replacement windows usually last?

Most modern vinyl and fiberglass windows last 20–30 years or more with normal use. Wood windows can also last decades but require regular painting or sealing to prevent rot.

Will new windows really lower my energy bills?

They can, especially if you’re replacing old, drafty single-pane windows. Savings vary by climate and home, but many homeowners see noticeable comfort improvements first, with energy savings building over time.

Do I need to replace all my windows at once?

No. Many people replace windows in phases, starting with the worst ones or the most-used rooms. Just keep in mind that mixing very old and very new windows can create uneven comfort and appearance.

Are window replacements covered by homeowners insurance?

Typically, normal wear and tear isn’t covered, but sudden damage from a covered event (like a storm or break-in) might be. Check your policy or ask your insurer for specifics.

Wrap-up and next steps

Choosing window repair or replacement is really about age, condition, and how your home feels and performs. Younger windows with isolated issues can often be repaired cost-effectively, while older, drafty, or rotted units are usually worth replacing — especially if you’re planning to stay in the home for several years.

Because window pricing and quality vary so much, it’s smart to get 2–3 detailed quotes and compare not just the bottom line, but also frame materials, glass options, installation methods, and warranties. A neutral directory like Home Services Scout can help you quickly find and compare local window pros without pressure.

With clear information and the right questions, you can choose a solution that fits your budget, comfort goals, and long-term plans — and enjoy a home that feels quieter, more comfortable, and more efficient for years to come.